food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington

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Chapter 11 Menu Planning: Horizontal and Vertical Pairing Decisions
Food Item: Roasted Loin of Venison with Smoked Trio of Beets and
Syrah Demiglace
Yield: 6 servings
Ingredients
11 /4 c (280 ml) buttermilk
21 /4 c (510 ml) Syrah, divided
11 /2 c (340 ml) mirepoix (large dice of 2 parts
onion, 1 part carrot, and 1 part celery)
1 tsp (10 ml) juniper berries
1 tbsp (30 ml) fresh thyme plus sprigs for
garnish
Salt
Black pepper
21 /2 lb (1.1 kg) boneless loin of venison
6–8 oz (200 g) small red beets
6–8 oz (200 g) small gold beets
6–8 oz (200 g) small striped beets
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tbsp (50–60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
3 /4 lb (340 g) smoked bacon
2 bay leaves
3 /4 c (170 ml) demiglace (a mixture of half
brown stock and half brown sauce
that is reduced by half)
3 c (700 ml) mashed Idaho potatoes,
seasoned with a little cream, butter,
salt, and pepper
Preparation
Combine the buttermilk, 1 cup (240 ml) of Syrah, mirepoix,
juniper berries, thyme, bay leaves, 2 tsp (10 ml) salt,
and 1 tsp (5 ml) pepper. Add the venison loin to the
marinade and allow to marinate overnight. Boil the
beets until they are cooked; when cool enough to
handle, remove the skins by rubbing them with your
fingers, and completely cool the beets. Trim the beets
to remove the bottom ends and remaining green
tops, as desired. Place the beets in a smoker for 15–20
minutes (up to 30 minutes for full-sized beets).
Remove from the smoker. The beets can be left whole
if they are baby beets or quartered/cut into wedges if
they are a larger size. Season with garlic, salt, pepper,
and olive oil. Place on a roasting pan and roast at
425°F (245°C) for about 15–20 minutes just prior to
service. Remove the venison from the marinade.
Wrap the loin with bacon slices. Remove the mirepoix
from the marinade, place the vegetables on the
bottom of a roasting pan, and set the barded venison
loin(s) on top. Preheat the oven to 425°F (245°C).
Roast the venison for about 30 minutes or until the
internal temperature reaches the desired doneness.
Remove from the roasting pan and allow the venison
roast to rest while you are preparing the sauce.
Deglaze the roasting pan with the remaining 1 1 /4 c
(300 ml) of Syrah and reduce by half. Add the
demiglace, bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer
and cook until it reaches the desired thickness
(nappé—it coats the back of a spoon). Season to taste
with salt and pepper. Slice venison and serve with
roasted beets, mashed potatoes, Syrah demiglace,
and a sprig of thyme as a garnish.
Cheese Course The next chapter provides a more in-depth look at pairing wines
with cheeses and desserts. The addition of a cheese course or using it to replace dessert has
been a growing trend in restaurants in North America. One reason for this growth is the
simultaneous growth of artisan cheesemakers throughout the United States and Canada. For
this particular menu, two well-known Northwest cheeses were selected: Oregonzola and
Cougar Gold Cheddar. The Oregonzola is produced by the Rouge Creamery in Oregon,
which has won numerous international awards for its blue-veined cheeses. This particular
one is a Gorgonzola-style cheese that has sweet and savory characteristics. Cougar Gold
Cheddar is produced by Washington State University Creamery and is a white cheddar
featuring a sharp, nutty flavor that resembles Swiss or Gouda. To add a little excitement to
this course, I include thyme-infused honey, apricot-orange conserve, dried cherry compote,
and aged balsamic vinegar.
The wine selection depends on the sequencing of this item. If it is the final course,
you can choose from a wider variety of wines. If a dessert course follows, in my mind the
selections are a little more limited. When this course was served, we continued service of
the Syrah that was served with the main course. A Washington Syrah, an Aussie Shiraz, or
Cabernet/Shiraz blend would fit the bill in this case. The Washington Syrah is not as fullbodied
as a Cabernet but has a smoother tactile sensation and more fruit-forward character.