food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington

50
Chapter 3 Gastronomic Identity
One of the main sources used to promote a wine and food program are the menu and wine list
themselves. Many successful restaurants have distinctly separate wine lists and menus. But, others are creating
a closer connection between wine and food by including tasting notes on wine lists and menus,
integrating the wine list with the food menu, and creating menus with specific pairing suggestions. Some
wine-by-the-glass programs include daily wine recommendations that are sold by the glass to accompany
specific menu items to encourage wine with meals. Wine-by-the-glass programs can feature one to 30
wines. To begin a wine-by-the-glass program, it is important to begin with a manageable number, probably
no more than 5 or 6 different wines unless you make an initial investment in a preservation system. In
order for a program work without a preservation system, the wines will need to be refrigerated at night
and held for no longer than 48 hours. You will get about five five-ounce glasses per bottle. Pricing of wines
by the glass varies and is usually based on a targeted beverage cost percentage (usually anywhere from 20–
30 percent). A good rule-of-thumb is to sell a glass of wine in this program for what the bottle costs the
operator. You will notice that this method creates a beverage cost of about 20 percent and your cost is
covered when you sell your first glass.
While the connection between the creation of a wine list and the following discussion of gastronomic
identity may not be readily apparent, the culture of the environment a restaurant operates in has a huge
impact on internal business decisions – one example being the organization of a menu and wine list.
THE ENVIRONMENT
The impact of the external environment has been a prominent area of concern in a
variety of areas related to wine, food, and the restaurant business: wine production, food
production, management, and product innovations. 7 As shown in Figure 3.1, prominent
environmental factors in defining gastronomic identity include geography, climate, indigenous
products, and the integration of new wine or food products over time.
While the issue of environment for this discussion primarily relates to the impact on
wine components, texture, and flavor, related environmental concerns in the wine field such
as organic production techniques, pesticide-free farming, sustainability, and other ‘‘green’’
techniques merit acknowledgment. A growing number of grape growers and winemakers are
embracing practices that promote sustainable agriculture and healthier wine choices. Many
realize the benefits of nonpolluting viticulture practices for both their local soil and vineyards
and the planet as a whole. Winery owners such as John Williams of Frog’s Leap (Rutherford,
California) and Catherine Castling of Domaine de Clovallon (Bédarieux in the Languedoc
region of France) use organic tools and techniques to maintain and resuscitate vineyard soil. 8
The Niagara Peninsula winery Stratus created the first building in Canada to achieve Leadership
in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) certification from the Canada Green
Building Council. As of 2006, Stratus was the only winery worldwide to fully achieve this
designation with its buildings. Additional information on what it means to be LEED certified
can be gathered at the U.S. Green Building Council Web site, www.usgbc.org.
WINE: THE IMPACT OF
GEOGRAPHY AND CLIMATE
Geography and climate impact the wines that an area is capable of producing, whether
or not a winemaking venture will be profitable, and whether the product will achieve an