food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington

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CHAPTER 9 THE IMPACT OF SPICE CHAPTER OUTLINE: Introduction Aperitif: Bayou La Seine: An American Restaurant in Paris Wine Varietals and Styles Food Types and Styles How Spice Is Assessed: Identifying Hot, Savory, or Sweet Impact on Pairing Possibilities Summary Exercises KEY CONCEPTS: ● Adapting ethnic foods to local tastes ● Prominent spice flavors ● Differences between herbs and spices ● Spice flavor levels ● Savory spices ● Sweet spices ● Hot spices ● Potential wine killers ● Limiting effects of spice on wine pairing 189
190 Chapter 9 The Impact of Spice INTRODUCTION Flavor layering adds more elements to taste components and texture. Trying to consider all of these elements simultaneously can create confusion about the best wine choice for a given food item. Therefore, one objective of the food-andwine pairing process is to isolate these flavors and identify the most prominent ones. Major flavor character categories include fruity, nutty, smoky, herbal, spicy, cheesy, earthy, and meaty. Spicy flavors in food and wine can be particularly important for matching purposes. Spices have a long and colorful tradition, having been used for centuries in cooking, for medicinal purposes, and for other reasons. In ancient Greece, bay leaves were made into crowns for scholars and victorious athletes to wear. Capsicum peppers have been eaten by New World Indians since about 7000 BC. In past centuries, fennel was traditionally hung over doorways because the plant was believed to ward off evil spirits. 4 Technically, spices are distinguished from herbs based on the part of the plant from which they are derived. Spices come from roots (for example, ginger), bark (cinnamon), flowers (saffron), seeds (cumin), fruit (allspice), or buds (cloves), while herbs are the fresh or dried leaves. We can classify sea- Aperitif Bayou La Seine: An American Restaurant in Paris sonings based on their taste: sweet-spicy, savory-spicy, hotspicy, and herbal, for example. 5 While many experts suggest pairing food and wines by matching flavors, evaluators need to keep in mind that spicy or herbal flavors in wine do not come from actual spices and herbs, and spiciness in food and wine does not by itself guarantee a good match between the two. 6 While both Gewürztraminer and many Asian and Indian dishes are frequently described as spicy, this particular match is more likely to work because of similar levels of acidity and sweetness, not because of the spiciness. To create a match using flavors and spiciness, it is important to define the type of spice in the wine and food to ensure a satisfying match. The wine and food pairing instrument that will be presented and discussed in Chapters 11 and 12 includes a separate line to assess the level of spice in both wine and food as part of the evaluation process. The flavor of spice is listed as a separate category because of its likely impact on pairing decisions when a significant level is present in food dishes. The following sections explore the issue of spice and its potential impact on pairing decisions. Chef and co-owner Judith Bluysen opened the restaurant, originally called Thanksgiving, along with her husband, Frédéric, in 1993. The restaurant evolved into a full-service operation after a three-year stint selling American packaged food and homemade take-out foods such as Chili con Carne, Barbecued Ribs, and Jambalaya, and running an American-cuisine catering service in Paris. The packaged-food store, Thanksgiving American Grocery Store, still operates directly behind the restaurant, selling baking needs, basic American groceries, spices, Louisiana specialties, Tex-Mex ingredients, and other specialty items. For the first year, their restaurant served dishes based on a variety of regional American cuisines, including New England Baked Beans, North Carolina Barbecue Pork, Kentucky Burgoo, guacamole, pastrami, coleslaw, a few California-inspired salads, and Louisiana’s gumbos, jambalayas, and étouffées. Although the restaurant was relatively successful, they quickly determined that the various cooking styles, ingredients, and range of accompaniments were too confusing for the Parisian clientele. Judith and Frederic decided to choose one cuisine and stick with it. Partially because Louisiana cuisine is particularly relevant to France, but mostly because of its rich history and its quality, they chose the Cajun and Creole cuisines of Louisiana. As part of this focus, they decided to change the name of the restaurant to Bayou La Seine to utilize the Cajun term for a small river and identify its location near the Seine River in Paris. In this chapter, the focus is on the impact of spicy flavors on wine and food pairing decisions. An assumption of Cajun and Creole cuisine is that it is spicy. While this is not always the case, the level of
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FOOD AND WINE PAIRING A SENSORY EXP
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FOOD AND WINE PAIRING A SENSORY EXP
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PREFACE xi ACKNOWLEDGMENTS xiii CON
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Summary 111 Exercises 112 CHAPTER 6
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CHAPTER 13: THE GRAND FINALE: DESSE
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xii Preface PEDAGOGICAL FEATURES TH
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PART A MASTERING THE ART AND SCIENC
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CHAPTER 1 THE WINE AND FOOD PYRAMID
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Aperitif/The Italian Wine and Food
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Aperitif/The Italian Wine and Food
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Food and Wine Pairing Mechanics: Ma
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OVERVIEW OF BOOK METHODS Wine and f
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Wine Sensory Pyramid The Wine Senso
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Classic Italian Wine and Food Examp
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The Pinot Bianco tames the asparagu
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20 Chapter 2 Taste Basics and the B
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CHAPTER 3 GASTRONOMIC IDENTITY: THE
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on prevailing components, textures,
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Aperitif/How Should Menus and Wine
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Wine: The Impact of Geography and C
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Table 3.1 Approximate Climate Zones
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Wine: The Impact of Geography and C
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Trial and Error, Innovations, and C
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number of reasons why these general
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tasting panel members would be Fren
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NOTES 1. B. Santich, ‘‘The Stud
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66 Chapter 4 Gastronomic Identity I
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PART B THE FOUNDATION: FOOD AND WIN
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at all. Dryness and sweetness for t
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CHAPTER 5 THE IMPACT OF SWEETNESS A
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THE IMPACT OF SWEETNESS LEVELS IN W
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Table 5.1 Wine Sweetness Level Desc
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with a fruit/sweet sauce, choose a
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Table 5.3 Acidity Level Description
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unoaked white is preferred when pai
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STEPS Exercise 5.1 113 1. Buy the w
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Evaluator’s Name: _______________
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STEPS Table 5.8 Wine and Food Sweet
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d. White Zinfandel Worst match 1.
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This exercise is designed to establ
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The basic rule for wine and food pa
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CHAPTER 6 SALT, BITTERNESS, AND BUB
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sauce, vegetarian spring rolls, gla
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not a dominant characteristic in wi
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Table 6.3 Sweetness Levels in Spark
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Figure 6.2 1 Wine— No Bubbles Win
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Basic Wine Sequencing Recommendatio
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Soup Course This menu item incorpor
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Pacific Northwest Menu 243 Food Ite
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This finished dish is full-bodied,
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While aged cheddar complements just
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Wine and Food Pairing Instrument 24
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C O M P O N E N T S T E X T U R E F
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A Profiling Approach to Match Level
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Food Item:_________________________
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Smoked Corn & Chicken Pasta Penne p
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Components Similarity Contrast Scor
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C O M P O N E N T S T E X T U R E F
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Flavor Similarity Contrast Score Lo
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STEPS Table 11.2 Wines, Food Items,
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Food Item: Grilled Sirloin Yield: 6
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270 Chapter 12 Wine and Cheese: A N
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282 STEPS Chapter 12 Wine and Chees
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288 Chapter 13 The Grand Finale: De
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304 STEPS Chapter 13 The Grand Fina
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308 Chapter 14 The Customer Experie
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314 Glossary Consistency. Refers to
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316 Glossary percent fat content an
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318 Index Botrytis cinerea 291-292
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320 Index Grassiness 38 213 Graves
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322 Index Spice(s) 190, 192, 194, 1
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