food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington
food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington
food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington
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70<br />
Chapter 4 Gastronomic Identity II: Food <strong>and</strong> Cuisine<br />
Food Item: Oysters Marie Laveau (courtesy Chef John Folse)<br />
Yield: 6 servings<br />
Marie Laveau was the voodoo queen of Bourbon Street. Legend has it that the pirate Jean Lafitte often met<br />
Marie at the Old Absinthe House late in the evening where they enjoyed oysters on the half shell while<br />
trading secrets of Barataria Bay.<br />
Ingredients for Oysters<br />
3 dozen select oysters (reserve liquid)<br />
3 tbsp (42 g) butter<br />
1 tsp (5 g) minced garlic<br />
1 tsp (5 g) chopped parsley<br />
1 /2 oz (15 ml) Pernod or Herbsaint<br />
Ingredients for Sauce<br />
1 /4 lb (113 g) butter<br />
1 /2 c (113 g) diced onions<br />
1 /4 c (57 g) diced celery<br />
2 tbsp (28 g) minced garlic<br />
1 /4 c (57 g) sliced green onions<br />
1 /2 c (113 g) white crabmeat or 1 /2 c (113 g)<br />
chopped cooked shrimp<br />
21 /2 tbsp (36 g) flour<br />
3 c (720 ml) heavy whipping cream<br />
1 oz (30 ml) dry white <strong>wine</strong><br />
Reserved cooked liquid from oysters<br />
Reserved raw liquid from oysters<br />
1 /8 tsp (0.5 g) nutmeg<br />
1 /4 c (57 g) diced red bell pepper<br />
1 /4 c (57 g) diced yellow bell pepper<br />
Salt<br />
Cracked black pepper<br />
Parmesan cheese<br />
Preparation for Oysters<br />
In a heavy-bottomed sauté pan, melt butter over mediumhigh<br />
heat. Stir in garlic <strong>and</strong> parsley <strong>and</strong> sauté 2<br />
minutes. Add oysters <strong>and</strong> cook until edges begin to<br />
curl, but do not overcook. Deglaze with Pernod <strong>and</strong><br />
cook 1 minute. Remove oysters, reduce liquid by half,<br />
<strong>and</strong> reserve for sauce.<br />
Preparation for Sauce<br />
Preheat oven to 375°F. In a one-quart heavy-bottomed<br />
saucepan, melt butter over medium-high heat. Add<br />
onions, celery, garlic <strong>and</strong> green onions <strong>and</strong> sauté 3<br />
minutes. Stirring constantly, add crabmeat or shrimp<br />
<strong>and</strong> sauté 1 minute. Whisk in flour until a white roux<br />
is achieved, then whisk in cream <strong>and</strong> <strong>wine</strong>. Bring to a<br />
low boil, stirring constantly as mixture thickens. Pour<br />
in cooked liquid from oysters <strong>and</strong> reserved oyster<br />
liquid. Reduce heat to simmer <strong>and</strong> cook 10–15<br />
minutes, adding hot water if sauce becomes too thick.<br />
Add nutmeg <strong>and</strong> bell pepper, then season with salt<br />
<strong>and</strong> pepper. Place 6 oysters in each au gratin dish, top<br />
with a generous serving of sauce, <strong>and</strong> bake until<br />
bubbly. If desired, sprinkle Parmesan cheese on top<br />
prior to baking. Serve with garlic croutons.<br />
This recipe is particularly <strong>wine</strong>-friendly. The classic <strong>wine</strong> matches with oysters are Champagne, Sancerre<br />
(Sauvignon Blanc), or cool-climate Chardonnay. This recipe utilizes baked oysters, the earthy goodness of<br />
garlic <strong>and</strong> onions, <strong>and</strong> a sauce of cream, oyster liquor, crab, <strong>and</strong> anise flavor. Of course, a sparkling <strong>wine</strong> or<br />
Champagne would be wonderful with this dish. Because this dish is a more decadent preparation, a New<br />
World Chardonnay from the United States, Australia, or Chile would make a great match on the basis of<br />
the buttery flavor <strong>and</strong> the flavor intensity.