food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington

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CHAPTER 3 GASTRONOMIC IDENTITY: THE EFFECT OF THE ENVIRONMENT AND CULTURE ON PREVAILING COMPONENTS, TEXTURE, AND FLAVORS IN WINE AND FOOD CHAPTER OUTLINE: Introduction Aperitif: How Should Menus and Wine Lists Be Organized? The Environment Wine: The Impact of Geography and Climate Culture History and Ethnic Diversity Trial and Error, Innovations, and Capabilities Gastronomic Identity Old World and New World Summary Exercises KEY CONCEPTS: ● Heat summation units ● Climate zones ● Flavor profiles ● Macroclimates, mesoclimates, and microclimates ● Appellations ● American Viticultural Areas ● Prohibition ● Terroir ● Classic wine and food marriages 45
46 Chapter 3 Gastronomic Identity INTRODUCTION Gastronomy has been defined in a variety of ways, including guidance on proper food and drink, a historical topic, and a reflection of a society’s culture. 1 For our purposes, gastronomy is defined as relating to historical, cultural, and environmental impacts on the ‘‘how, where, when and why of eating and drinking.’’ 2 The how, where, when, and why of eating and drinking is important to society and all participants in the foodservice industry. Knowledge of appropriate combinations of food and drink is important to those experiencing the combinations as well as those designing and preparing them. While many of the Old World cultures have a history of identifying and defining their gastronomy, North America has just begun to do so. Only in the last twenty-five years has the idea of culinary identity been promoted in locations across this large continent. While culinary identity stresses the use of local ingredients and identifies the impact of a variety of cultures on food, it does not provide for a discussion of the additional layering possibilities of taste, texture, and flavors provided by the ‘‘copilot’’ in this equation—drink. The concept of gastronomic identity illustrates the influences of the environment (geography and climate) and culture (history and ethnic influences) on prevailing taste components, textures, and flavors in food and drink. The objective of this chapter is to begin to flesh out the idea of gastronomic identity, show its value, and provide a jumping-off point for further discussion. Why is this discussion important? Gastronomic identity has significant consequences for successful wine tourism, culinary tourism, and the introduction of history as a valueadded feature of these tourism products. Further, as a point of discussion, it allows us to more clearly articulate the ‘‘product’’ that is provided by firms in the wine and culinary industries. Danhi suggested that six main elements are critical in determining a country’s ‘‘culinary identity’’: geography, history, ethnic diversity, culinary etiquette, prevailing flavors, and recipes. 3 Geography is a defining factor in gastronomic identity, as it is critical in determining the definitive pantry of a specific region—the wine grapes that can be grown, indigenous food products, and staple agricultural products that are readily available. Historical events have a significant impact on identifiable characteristics through the introduction of additional ingredients, cooking techniques, traditional methods of viticulture, and winemaking methods to a region. The ethnic diversity in a particular location has a profound impact on the traditional foods prepared and the fusion of cuisines that creates unique and identifiable products over time. Ethnic diversity also impacts viticulture and winemaking techniques brought into the area from home countries. This diversity changes over time and creates a continuous evolution of wine and food products based on a fusion of perspectives and cultures. Danhi refers to culinary etiquette as another identifier of a regional cuisine, defining it by how and what a particular culture eats. The four basic taste characteristics of sweet, sour, bitter, and salty (and what is the fifth to some people, umami) provide a range of prevailing flavor profiles to identify gastronomic characteristics and preferences in wine and food items. Finally, the recipes in a locale or region provide defining elements through the use of available ingredients, techniques, and presentations. Recipes can also be thought of as a winemaking concept. Winemakers need to consider the proper blend of grapes both by varietal and selection as well as the preparation techniques during fermentation and aging. This is the same basic thought process considered in food recipes—but it may be more closely akin to baking or pastry production, given its more scientific nature. The culinary identity concept has been utilized successfully in all segments of the foodservice industry, providing many firms with a ‘‘barrier to imitation’’ from competitors—a competitive hurdle that is difficult for rivals to duplicate. 4 For example, U.S. firms have been successful at utilizing a Louisiana heritage perspective in restaurants ranging from quick service (Popeye’s Chicken and Biscuits) to fine dining (Chef John Folse’s Bittersweet Plantation, Commander’s Palace). This identity perspective has not generally been applied to wine. Wine is commonly defined by country of origin, climate zones, or whether the wine’s characteristics are derived from Old World or New World traditions. 5 While a number of factors influence agri-food systems in societies, 6 this chapter focuses on a gastronomic identity perspective to describe the wine characteristics of a region. Figure 3.1 provides a framework of the gastronomic identity perspective. To begin the task of sorting out this concept, the impact of the environmental elements and cultural elements
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FOOD AND WINE PAIRING A SENSORY EXP
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FOOD AND WINE PAIRING A SENSORY EXP
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PREFACE xi ACKNOWLEDGMENTS xiii CON
Page 10 and 11: Summary 111 Exercises 112 CHAPTER 6
Page 12: CHAPTER 13: THE GRAND FINALE: DESSE
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Page 18 and 19: PART A MASTERING THE ART AND SCIENC
Page 20 and 21: CHAPTER 1 THE WINE AND FOOD PYRAMID
Page 22 and 23: Aperitif/The Italian Wine and Food
Page 24 and 25: Aperitif/The Italian Wine and Food
Page 26 and 27: Food and Wine Pairing Mechanics: Ma
Page 28 and 29: OVERVIEW OF BOOK METHODS Wine and f
Page 30 and 31: Wine Sensory Pyramid The Wine Senso
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Page 37 and 38: 20 Chapter 2 Taste Basics and the B
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Page 66 and 67: Aperitif/How Should Menus and Wine
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Page 70 and 71: Table 3.1 Approximate Climate Zones
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94 Chapter 4 Gastronomic Identity I
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PART B THE FOUNDATION: FOOD AND WIN
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at all. Dryness and sweetness for t
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CHAPTER 5 THE IMPACT OF SWEETNESS A
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THE IMPACT OF SWEETNESS LEVELS IN W
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Table 5.1 Wine Sweetness Level Desc
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with a fruit/sweet sauce, choose a
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Table 5.3 Acidity Level Description
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unoaked white is preferred when pai
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STEPS Exercise 5.1 113 1. Buy the w
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Evaluator’s Name: _______________
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STEPS Table 5.8 Wine and Food Sweet
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d. White Zinfandel Worst match 1.
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This exercise is designed to establ
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The basic rule for wine and food pa
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CHAPTER 6 SALT, BITTERNESS, AND BUB
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sauce, vegetarian spring rolls, gla
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not a dominant characteristic in wi
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Table 6.3 Sweetness Levels in Spark
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Figure 6.2 1 Wine— No Bubbles Win
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MATERIALS NEEDED Table 6.5 Material
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STEPS Saltiness Name:______________
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BITTERNESS Exercise 6.1 143 1. Prep
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PART C WINE AND FOOD TEXTURE CHARAC
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Main texture measures used in food
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150 Chapter 7 Wine Texture Characte
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166 OBJECTIVE Chapter 7 Wine Textur
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168 Chapter 8 Fattiness, Cooking Me
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PART D FLAVORS: ARCHITECTURAL ELEME
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CHAPTER 9 THE IMPACT OF SPICE CHAPT
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Aperitif/Bayou La Seine: An America
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Ingredients for Sauce 28 oz (800 g)
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How Spice Is Assessed: Identifying
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Food Item: ________________________
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Name____________________ Spice Food
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For this exercise, I suggest using
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In this exercise, which involves id
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Try a variety of wine styles (white
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208 Chapter 10 Flavor Intensity and
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The previous chapters have presente
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CHAPTER 11 MENU PLANNING: HORIZONTA
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The Food of the Pacific Northwest 2
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Basic Wine Sequencing Recommendatio
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Basic Wine Sequencing Recommendatio
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Soup Course This menu item incorpor
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Pacific Northwest Menu 243 Food Ite
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This finished dish is full-bodied,
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While aged cheddar complements just
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Wine and Food Pairing Instrument 24
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C O M P O N E N T S T E X T U R E F
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A Profiling Approach to Match Level
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Food Item:_________________________
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Smoked Corn & Chicken Pasta Penne p
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Components Similarity Contrast Scor
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C O M P O N E N T S T E X T U R E F
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Flavor Similarity Contrast Score Lo
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STEPS Table 11.2 Wines, Food Items,
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Food Item: Grilled Sirloin Yield: 6
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270 Chapter 12 Wine and Cheese: A N
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282 STEPS Chapter 12 Wine and Chees
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288 Chapter 13 The Grand Finale: De
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304 STEPS Chapter 13 The Grand Fina
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308 Chapter 14 The Customer Experie
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314 Glossary Consistency. Refers to
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316 Glossary percent fat content an
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318 Index Botrytis cinerea 291-292
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320 Index Grassiness 38 213 Graves
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322 Index Spice(s) 190, 192, 194, 1
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