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food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington

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48<br />

Chapter 3 Gastronomic Identity<br />

<strong>and</strong> decisions include the pricing methodology (mark-up method, prime cost, contribution margins, <strong>and</strong><br />

cost percentages), <strong>and</strong> pricing psychology issues (odd number, below zero, zero, other than zero). Other<br />

general requirements include aesthetic factors (<strong>food</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>wine</strong> variations in flavor, texture, color, shape, <strong>and</strong><br />

methods of preparation), the ability to produce <strong>and</strong> replicate the type of service needed <strong>and</strong> price elasticity<br />

of items consistently. Ultimately, the final menu <strong>and</strong> <strong>wine</strong> list should reflect the needs of both internal<br />

(servers, kitchen staff, stewarding, purchasing, <strong>and</strong> management) <strong>and</strong> external customers (guests <strong>and</strong> suppliers).<br />

While the design of both the menu <strong>and</strong> <strong>wine</strong> list are of equal importance, the <strong>wine</strong> list design may<br />

create additional psychological concerns for the guest. Wine lists can range from an extensive ‘‘book’’ in<br />

an expensive leather binding to a one-time use word processed copy, or a verbal rendition of available<br />

house <strong>wine</strong>s <strong>and</strong> <strong>wine</strong>s by the glass. The decision on the type of <strong>wine</strong> list has important cultural connotations<br />

in <strong>and</strong> of itself.<br />

For many guests, the <strong>wine</strong> list can be very intimidating. How can I select a <strong>wine</strong> from the myriad of<br />

choices? What price should I choose? Will I appear cheap if I select a lower priced bottle or pretentious<br />

if I select a higher priced one? What if I mispronounce the name of the <strong>wine</strong>, <strong>wine</strong>maker, or village name?<br />

Obviously, the restaurateur’s job is to minimize the intimidation issue <strong>and</strong> create an environment of<br />

customer engagement, potential value-added education, <strong>and</strong> create a sense of curiosity rather than intimidation<br />

for the guest. This is not to say that the traditional large <strong>wine</strong> list is not appropriate in many<br />

situations, but it may not be the best vehicle to sell <strong>wine</strong> in all situations, <strong>and</strong> knowing your clientele is an<br />

important element to consider when deciding the style of <strong>wine</strong> list to create.<br />

There are a number of ways a <strong>wine</strong> list can be structured. Most are categorized by country of origin,<br />

by <strong>wine</strong> type (whites, reds, sparkling, <strong>and</strong> fortified), or varietals. While this is not a bad way to structure a<br />

<strong>wine</strong> list, it doesn’t do a great job of providing an immediately identifiable relationship between the <strong>wine</strong><br />

styles <strong>and</strong> <strong>food</strong> styles. A second method of structuring a <strong>wine</strong> list is to organize the <strong>wine</strong>s by climate zone:<br />

cool, moderate, <strong>and</strong> warm. Within each category, the <strong>wine</strong>s can be organized from the lightest to the most<br />

powerful. This can be done either by creating the climate zone categories or arranging the <strong>wine</strong>s in an<br />

ascending order from lightest to most powerful within the traditional structure of country or region. This<br />

method of categorization is used when creating a progressive <strong>wine</strong> list. If maintaining a varietal framework,<br />

you would start off with a group of Rieslings organized from lightest to fullest, then Sauvignon Blancs,<br />

<strong>and</strong> so on. For <strong>wine</strong>s which do not fall within the neat <strong>and</strong> traditional <strong>wine</strong> varietal categories, you may<br />

need to create a special category such as worldly <strong>wine</strong>s, unique offerings, international favorites, or some<br />

other terminology.<br />

Part of the structure has to do with the length of the <strong>wine</strong> list. How long should it be? Well, that<br />

depends on several variables. What are your competitors doing? How much storage space <strong>and</strong> financial<br />

resources are you willing to commit? And, how much variety is sufficient for the menu <strong>and</strong> clientele? The<br />

length factor will be closely tied to decisions regarding <strong>wine</strong> storage. Will you create an elaborate <strong>wine</strong><br />

cellar? At its most basic level, this decision is based on whether or not you have proper storage space<br />

available. For a storage area to be adequate, it must maintain a constant temperature of 50–55 degrees F<br />

(10–13 degrees C), be away from direct sunlight, <strong>and</strong> free from vibration. A <strong>wine</strong> cellar also has substantial<br />

financial implications as you could have large sums of capital tied up in inventory for many years. Although<br />

these considerations are beyond the scope of this text, issues relating to the time-value of money, such as<br />

the investment potential of laying down quality <strong>wine</strong>s for several years <strong>and</strong> the <strong>wine</strong> cellar investment <strong>and</strong><br />

maintenance are all important considerations. Most restaurants plan on short-term <strong>wine</strong> investments with<br />

the vast majority of <strong>wine</strong>s sold within 30 to 60 days.<br />

For a 100-seat restaurant, a minimum number of <strong>wine</strong>s should be about 60 or so. This number is<br />

divided among sparkling, whites, reds, <strong>and</strong> desserts. Sixty different bottles may seem like a lot, but when<br />

it is divided into these basic categories it is a sufficient number of bottles to provide a satisfactory level of<br />

taste variety.<br />

A second consideration is whether or not to include a <strong>wine</strong> item or bin number on the <strong>wine</strong> list.<br />

This can be advantageous for several reasons. First, it lessens the chance of confusion about which bottle

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