food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington

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Chapter 6 Salt, Bitterness, and Bubbles
BITTERNESS
A wine cellar in Monte Carlo,
Monaco, containing
Champagne bottles nearly
two hundred years old.
In food, salt magnifies our perception of tastes and flavors already present. Similarly,
when salty foods are combined with wine, the salt magnifies the negative aspects inherent
in wine when salt is present at a high level. This is particularly true for red wines—highly
salty foods seem to accentuate any bitterness or astringency present in a wine. Salt magnifies
the heat from alcohol and creates a bitter, unpleasant taste. And high salt in foods creates a
metallic taste with wines of high acidity.
In general, high salt foods should be served with wines that have no tannins, have
some residual sugar (sweetness), are fruit-forward, and have moderate levels of acidity. 3 Because
of residual sugar and fruitiness, Rieslings or Gewürztraminers pair well with salty
dishes. If reds are desired, choose cooler-climate reds that are low in tannins or red varietals
from warm climates that have soft, ripe tannin characteristics. For traditional dishes such as
baked ham, a rosé makes a good choice—the residual sugar, fruitiness, and low tannins work
well with the saltiness in the ham as well as any fruit glazes that may be added during
baking. 4
Another suggestion is to create salty and sweet combinations such as Stilton and Port
or Sauternes. Champagne is also regularly suggested as pairing fairly well with salty foods.
The classic example is the marriage of Champagne and caviar. Due to its acidity and bubbles,
Champagne is food-friendly in general, and the effervescence helps to cleanse the palate.
Most of us from North America do not have a strong tradition of enjoying distinctly
bitter characteristics in our foods and beverages. Besides having hops added to the beer we
drink or the occasional radicchio or frisée added to a salad, bitter elements are generally a
rather subdued part of our daily sensory routines. Many European and Eastern cultures have
a more positive relationship with bitter foods and beverages. Belgian endive, olives, and
Campari are but three common examples of bitter tastes from Europe, where they are
thought by many to stimulate the appetite and increase the flow of digestive juices.
The bitter sensation is derived from a reaction
to the alkaloids in certain foods, and this sensation
is usually detected on the back of the tongue.
Bitter beverages include coffee, tea, and tonic water.
Bitterness in foods can be slight, as in butter lettuce,
iceberg, or romaine, or quite substantial, as in endive,
citrus peel, and radicchio. Like saltiness, bitter
alkaloids are far more discernible at cooler temperatures.
This explains why cold coffee and cold Italian
red wines (i.e. Barolo, Nebbiolo, and Chianti)
taste so bitter.
Some people—perhaps 25 percent of the population,
according to one study—are exceptionally
sensitive to bitter tastes and tend to avoid them.
This sensitivity to bitter tastes has a tendency to
impact dietary choices and food selection, which
may possibly have health consequences—in the study, women who disliked sharp and bitter
foods limited their consumption of foods that are known to reduce cancer risk, such as
broccoli and Brussels sprouts, citrus fruits (such as grapefruit), and other bitter berries and
roots. 5
In wine, tannin is often confused with bitterness, but they are different. Tannin is a
feeling of astringency and is a tactile sensation felt throughout your mouth. Bitterness is a
primary taste component detected on the back of the tongue. As with saltiness, bitterness is