food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington

240
Chapter 11 Menu Planning: Horizontal and Vertical Pairing Decisions
suggest that the fourth suggestion should supersede the fifth, as the well-aged
red in this example will be perceived as the higher-quality wine.
These basic ordering guidelines are useful to keep in mind when planning a menu
with multiple courses and multiple wines. Fortunately, in most cases, you can use time and
creativity to get around these guidelines to some extent. You are encouraged to keep these
issues in the back of your mind while planning vertical choices and to make adjustments
accordingly.
PACIFIC NORTHWEST MENU
Appetizer This course features Olympia oysters served with hot and cold contrasting
elements. Olympia oysters are known for their intense and minerally flavor, and this dish
combines these oysters, served baked, with a savory sorbet. The idea is to add a little of the
wine, citrus, and fennel sorbet with each bite of oyster—layering additional flavors, acid (like
a squeeze of lemon), and temperature differences. This non-sweet sorbet takes some getting
used to, as tradition provides us with a preconception that sorbet should be sweet. Some
people can move past this sensory ‘‘script,’’ while others cannot.
The ingredients in this dish combine some Asian elements (gingerroot and Japanese
red pepper seasoning) with traditional European preparation methods and ingredients. For
the sorbet, a Washington Riesling with a relatively high acidity and fruity flavor was used—
an off-dry version that contrasts the mineral flavor of the oysters, the salty components of
the prosciutto and sea salt, and the spicy flavors of the gingerroot and red pepper seasoning.
For this dinner, a Chateau Ste. Michelle Eroica Riesling was served. It has been described
as lively (plenty of acidity) with off-dry fruit flavors and a tangy mineral edge. These flavors
create both similarity and contrasts to the finished dish. You might also try a Sauvignon
Blanc or unoaked Chardonnay, which are classic matches with oysters.
Food Item: ‘‘Fire and Ice’’ Northwest Oysters
Yield: 6 servings
Ingredients for oysters
2 oz (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 shallots, peeled and sliced into fine
julienne
2 oz (60 g) ginger root, peeled and sliced
into fine julienne
36 Olympia oysters, washed and ready to
shell
1 1 /2 oz (40 g) prosciutto, sliced thin, then
finely diced (brunoise)
Sea salt
Ichimi togarashi (Japanese red pepper
seasoning)
Juice of 1 lemon
Ingredients for sorbet
1 c (220 ml) Riesling
Juice of 1 lemon
1 tbsp (15 ml) chopped fennel
Salt
Pepper
Preparation
Combine all of the sorbet ingredients. Freeze in an ice
cream freezer according to directions. Heat a little of
the olive oil in a saucepan. Add shallots and
gingerroot and lightly caramelize. Reduce the heat
and cover the shallot/ginger mixture with the
remaining olive oil. Simmer over low heat until the
shallots and ginger are tender. Open the oysters and
place them in the half shell on a baking sheet. Top
them evenly with the shallot/ginger mixture and diced
prosciutto and drizzle with the oil from the
shallot/ginger mixture. Season with sea salt, ichimi
togarashi, and lemon juice. Bake at 375°F (190°C) for
6–8 minutes. Serve immediately with a small scoop of
the frozen sorbet.