food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington

Table 5.3 Acidity Level Descriptions
Value
Bands Level of Acidity Description Example Wines and Foods
0
1
2
2
3
4
4
5
6
6
7
8
8
9
10
Flat (flabby)—no to low acidity. The
inability to pick up the sensation of
sourness on the tongue.
Lacking—little acidity. Any level of sour
characteristics is barely perceived and
only with difficulty and hard work on the
evaluator’s part.
Refreshing—Moderate Acidity. A light /
moderate sour sensation is identified and
perceived at a sufficient level.
Crisp—moderate / high acidity. A sour
sensation on the tongue that is clearly
identifiable in a very defined way.
Green or tart—very high acidity. Sourness
is at an unmistakably high level of
perceptibility with a lot of emphasis.
Interaction Between Wine and Food Acidity 109
Wines: Inexpensive and poor-quality
Chardonnay and some warm-climate
whites
Foods: Drinking water, plain pasta
Wines: Warm-climate Chardonnay
Foods: Pasta tossed with extra-virgin olive
oil, cow’s milk, sweet corn, lima beans,
plain salmon
Wines: Moderate-climate (oaked) Fumé
Blanc, moderate-climate (unoaked)
Chardonnay, moderate / cool-climate reds
Foods: Squash, yogurt, figs, pasta tossed
with 1 part extra-virgin olive oil and 1 part
balsamic vinaigrette
Wines: Many New Zealand whites, Loire
wines, white Burgundy, most cool-climate
whites, and many well-made whites from
moderate-climate zones
Foods: Tree fruits (apricots, apples,
peaches, cherries), applesauce, pasta
tossed with balsamic vinaigrette
Wines: Some Sancerre, Vinho Verde
(Portugal), some Champagne
Foods: Citrus juices, sauerkraut, plums,
rhubarb, pasta tossed with balsamic
vinegar
Source: Adapted from C. A. Rietz, A Guide to the Selection, Combination, and Cooking of Foods (Westport, CT: AVI, 1976);
J. Robinson, How to Taste: A Guide to Enjoying Wine (New York: Simon and Schuster, 2000).
INTERACTION BETWEEN WINE AND
FOOD ACIDITY
Rule #2: Food acidity level should be less than or equal to wine acidity level.
The sour tastes in food can create potential problems when combined with wine. The
basic rule of thumb is that food acidity levels should be less than or equal to wine acidity.
When high-acid foods are matched with high-acid wines, the acidities tend to cancel each
other out, allowing the fruit and sweetness in the wine to come through. Classic examples
of this approach include serving Salade Lyonnaise with French Beaujolais and goat cheese
with French Sancerre (Sauvignon Blanc). This acid match can also let subtle food flavors
become more prominent in dishes; without the wine accompaniment, they might taste sour
at first bite.
Of course, not all acids are equally problematic for the culinary product, and the same
acid in different foods can pose more or less of a problem. For example, citric acid from
oranges and lemons can be combined with wine more successfully than citric acid from limes
or grapefruits. 19 In order not to overwhelm the wine acidity with the food acidity, use less
harsh acids in the food, and lower the total acid level if necessary.