food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington

212
Chapter 10 Flavor Intensity and Flavor Persistency
In-Mouth Process Determining flavor type and intensity is based on aroma perception
and retronasal olfaction (the smell of a food or wine once it’s in your mouth, which
is due to the connection between the oral and nasal cavities). Much of what you perceive as
taste or flavor is primarily driven by your ability to smell.
To maximize your potential when identifying aromas in wine and food, you need to
follow the simple nosing steps described in Chapter 2. When evaluating wine, fill the glass
no more than one-third full. This will allow you to properly swirl the wine and fully release
aromas. Tilt the glass toward you and place your nose inside the bowl. Take one deep sniff
or three or four short sniffs, then remove your nose from the glass to consider the aromas.
This is what is considered the ‘‘first nose’’ of the wine, providing you with your first impressions
of the aroma. After swirling the wine a second time and allowing the aromas to
open up more fully, follow the same smelling procedure. Many times, in this ‘‘second nose,’’
you will notice aromas different from those you detected in the first nose. This process can
be done for food while it is on a plate, in a cup, or on a fork.
A challenge when identifying and assessing the intensity of in-mouth flavors is maximizing
the ability to detect specific flavors and their intensity. Numerous research studies
have evaluated the impact that talking, swallowing, exhaling through the nose, chewing, and
tongue movements have on an evaluator’s perception of in-mouth flavors. 4 When identifying
flavors in food and wine, the main objectives are to release the flavor components while in
the oral cavity, and to ensure that the back-of-the-mouth nasal cavity is open. As you swallow
and talk, the nasal cavity closes, limiting access to retro-nasal flavors.
To release the flavor components in wine and other liquids, it is helpful to retain the
product in the oral cavity for several seconds (up to a minute) with normal breathing. Once
the time has passed, the air is deliberately exhaled through the nose. This process ensures
that the nasal cavity is open to help you to better assess types of flavors and their intensity.
Some wine evaluators will suck in additional air through the mouth to intensify flavor sensations.
Chewing releases flavor compounds in some foods, assisting in maximizing in-mouth
flavors and identification. As with liquids, experiments have demonstrated that food molecules
released into the airspace of the oral cavity will proceed to the nasal cavity if air is
exhaled through the nose while the lips are closed. 5
FOOD FLAVOR CATEGORIES
Once you have tasted a food item, note the dominant flavor(s) present. Also note any
other flavors present in the food. Most of the major food flavors are fairly self-explanatory.
However, one that may need additional discussion is umami, identified by Japanese flavor
researchers. In Japanese, the word umami basically translates as ‘‘deliciousness.’’ Most wine
and food pairing books suggest that umami is not generally a key driver when matching
food and wine. 6 Further, pairing experts suggest umami is a concept similar to savoriness or
meatiness in terms of a pairing characteristic. 7 For our purposes, umami is described as the
flavor associated with sources such as soy products, mushrooms, MSG, meat glazes, and
tomatoes. While umami is not a main factor in wine and food matching, it does create a
wine-friendly characteristic in food that makes certain foods more versatile with regard to
matching them with various wines. A suggestion for pairing wines to foods with umami
flavors is to use medium- to full-bodied red wines depending on the strength of the umami
flavor present in the food item. Highly intense umami flavor will overshadow light whites,
but less intense umami-flavored dishes work well with all types of white wines.
Earthy food flavors provide a positive, wine-friendly element in many foods, including
garlic, potatoes, mushrooms, truffles, some cheeses, rainbow trout, beans, and many grains.
Earthy foods work particularly well with wines that have earthy elements. Wines from the