food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington

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Chapter 5 The Impact of Sweetness and Acidity Levels in Wine and Food
It should be noted that vinegary tastes in wine and vinegar used in food do not provide
a match. Tartaric and malic acids are produced by the grape as it develops, but these principal
sources of natural acidity in wine are nonvolatile. 20 One of the most common winemaking
faults is volatile acidity (VA). VA is the result of the growth of bacteria that produce acetic
acid. Bacteria causing VA are found on the surfaces of grapes, winery equipment, and used
oak barrels. The bacteria can also start in the vineyard, with grapes damaged by birds or
mold. These bacteria need lots of oxygen to proliferate. When left unchecked, they produce
enzymes that transform alcohol into the vinegary-smelling acetic acid. When wine has higher
levels of oxygen exposure, is low in sulfur dioxide, and is low in tartaric, malic, and lactic
acid, the wine becomes a likely breeding ground for volatile acidity. 21 This vinegary characteristic
of poorly produced wine creates serious problems from a wine and food pairing
perspective.
Because acid in wine can heighten flavors in a dish—much like adding a squeeze of
lemon—the higher acidity in unoaked, fruity white wines allows them to work reasonably
well with the tang and zest of many salads. Acid in wine also cuts the fat in food dishes, but
the level of success in pairing wine acidity with food fattiness depends not only on the
amount of wine acidity and the amount of fat but also on the type of fat. Plant-based fats
such as olive oil and canola oil work well with wines that are moderately high to high in
acidity. With cream or butter (dairy fats), the importance of body match (full-bodied wine
with full-bodied food) becomes a better prediction of match than the acidity/fat relationship.
22 Because Chardonnays and other oak-aged whites generally have lower acid levels, an
Table 5.4 Example Acidic Foods with Wine Suggestions
Food Item Suggested Wine(s)
Artichokes or asparagus A crispy white—New Zealand Sauvignon
Blanc or white Rioja; if served with melted
butter, a young, crisp Chardonnay
Caesar salad A full-flavored white such as cool /
moderate-climate Chardonnay (New York or
Washington)
Ceviche A tart Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand,
Sancerre
Crudités Young dry whites such as Pinot Grigio,
Chenin Blanc, or Pinot Blanc
Anticipated Level
of Match
Neutral to good
Refreshment to neutral
Neutral
Fruit salad A sparkling wine such as Moscato d’Asti Good
Gazpacho Sauvignon Blanc or Manzanilla Sherry Good
Neutral to good
Lemon tart Canadian ice wine, Riesling Good to synergistic
Chicken curry with lime Gewürztraminer or Riesling Neutral
Salads (general
guidelines)
Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Grigio, dry
rosé, or light reds such as Beaujolais,
Dolcetto, or Gamay
Sauerkraut Very crisp and dry white—Mosel Riesling,
Canadian Riesling
Sorbets Light sweet sparkling wine—Moscato d’Asti Good
Savory dishes made
with yogurt
California, Washington, or Australian
Chardonnay
Adapted from J. Simon, Wine with Food (New York: Simon and Schuster, 1996).
Refreshment to neutral
Refreshment to neutral
Good