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food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington

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156<br />

Chapter 7 Wine Texture Characteristics: Tannin, Oak, <strong>and</strong> Body<br />

ALCOHOL LEVEL<br />

sample descriptions are included in the <strong>wine</strong> anchor references shown in the Wine Anchor<br />

References Sheet (Figure B.2). These fabrics are included in the appropriate value b<strong>and</strong> next<br />

to comparable levels of alcohol <strong>and</strong> <strong>wine</strong> varietals (Table 7.1).<br />

Alcohol generally is perceived as ‘‘bigness’’ or body in <strong>wine</strong>. While as a general rule<br />

the amount of alcohol in <strong>wine</strong> reinforces the perception of body, Peynaud suggests that body<br />

<strong>and</strong> alcohol strength are not the same; he describes the level of alcohol as ‘‘vinosity.’’ 9 Regular<br />

table <strong>wine</strong>s contain somewhere between 7 <strong>and</strong> 15 percent alcohol. Fortified <strong>wine</strong>s such as<br />

Port, Sherry, Madeira, <strong>and</strong> Marsala contain somewhere between 17 <strong>and</strong> 22 percent. 10 Alcohol<br />

content is easily determined, as it is required by law in the United States to be printed on<br />

the <strong>wine</strong> label, <strong>and</strong> it is relatively easy to differentiate the feeling of light, moderate, <strong>and</strong><br />

high alcohol by assessing the warming sensation in the mouth. Table 7.1 outlines general<br />

appraisal b<strong>and</strong>s based on the level of alcohol present.<br />

Warmer growing regions create riper grapes, which contain a higher level of sugar<br />

content. During the fermentation process, this higher sugar content converts to higher alcohol<br />

content <strong>and</strong> ultimately a ‘‘bigger’’ feeling of body in the finished <strong>wine</strong>. In the case of<br />

<strong>wine</strong>, bigger is not necessarily better—it depends on personal taste preferences <strong>and</strong> the <strong>food</strong><br />

being served. As a rule, more robust or bold <strong>food</strong>s work well with bigger, bolder <strong>wine</strong>s but<br />

your mood may also drive this matching decision. You may not prefer to drink big-feeling<br />

<strong>wine</strong>s on a day-to-day basis; sometimes you may be in the mood for a lighter, more refreshing<br />

<strong>experience</strong>.<br />

Pairing experts suggest that higher-alcohol <strong>wine</strong>s work well with <strong>food</strong>s served at a<br />

higher temperature but should be avoided when eating or serving very spicy <strong>food</strong>s. 11 While<br />

high-tannin reds do not work well with some cheeses, alcoholic, flavorful, <strong>and</strong> lower-tannin<br />

red <strong>wine</strong>s work well with cheeses as a rule. High alcohol in <strong>wine</strong> can also bring out any<br />

amount of fishiness present in fish dishes. Lower-alcohol <strong>wine</strong>s should be served with most<br />

egg dishes, as higher alcohol tastes even hotter if served with eggs. Chocolate has a tendency<br />

to turn <strong>wine</strong>s thin <strong>and</strong> acidic, but a higher alcohol content improves the relationship between<br />

<strong>wine</strong> <strong>and</strong> chocolate. 12<br />

Table 7.1 Values for Tannin Fabric References <strong>and</strong> Alcohol<br />

Levels in Wine<br />

Value B<strong>and</strong>s Tannin Fabric References Alcohol Percentage Present<br />

0<br />

1 Silk Less than 7%<br />

1<br />

2<br />

3<br />

4<br />

5<br />

6<br />

7<br />

8<br />

9<br />

Velvet 7 to 9%<br />

Suede 10 to 12%<br />

Corduroy 12.5 to 14.5%<br />

9<br />

10 Burlap 15% or higher

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