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Food: The Impact of Geography and Climate 79
of new food products over time. Many of the same issues presented in Chapter 3 for wine
apply equally to food.
FOOD: THE IMPACT OF GEOGRAPHY
AND CLIMATE
How have geography and climate affected food and the culinary world? Geography and
climate impact the agricultural products that are produced, which in turn impact our food
habits. The items available in our environment affect flavor preferences, eating habits, recipes,
and dining etiquette.
For most of human history, food has been consumed near where it was produced. If
a society had good access to freshwater fishing, for example, fish was a prominent part of
dietary patterns. Early societies and settlers in an area obtained food from the local environment,
and regions that provided an adequate food supply provided a basis for the development
of new settlements and more advanced civilizations. In Europe, regional variations
in soil type, rainfall, temperature, and altitude constrained what could be grown successfully,
and so food products vary significantly across Europe. Cereal production tended to be limited
to low-lying and irrigated plains, while mountainous areas were generally utilized for
livestock grazing and pasture. Southern European climates supported citrus fruits, olives,
and Mediterranean vegetables. Populations in coastal areas were dependent on fish and other
seafood as a large part of their diet. 7
While eating is essential for life, the enjoyment of eating good food is dependent on
cultural preferences for specific flavor profiles. As indicated in Chapter 2, all of us can
identify the dominant taste sensations of sweet, salty, sour, and bitter. Our preference or
tolerance for specific levels of these sensations is based in part on our country of origin,
eating habits, and the climate in which we live. This reflects learned preferences for specific
flavor profiles based on readily available products. For example, chestnuts are a common
food in certain parts of Europe, including the mountainous Cévennes region in France as
well as numerous locations in northern Italy and Spain. 8 But you would not find chestnuts
eaten with any frequency in the southern United States or other areas where they are not
indigenous.
Another reason for focusing on regionally produced food products is closely tied to
food quality. Generally, locally produced items are perceived as being of good quality—
particularly perishable products such as fruits and vegetables. Most of us can relate to childhood
memories of locally grown products consumed during the peak of the season, such as
Louisiana crawfish, Maine lobster, vine-ripened tomatoes, or fresh asparagus.
The idea of terroir can be applied to food items as well as to wine, as is often done
in France. As noted in the chapter on wine, the terroir concept is closely tied to both history
and nature. It is diametrically opposed to intensive farming practices that treat the soil as
‘‘an inert substrate that could be ‘laced’ with synthetic fertilizers and water to improve productivity.’’
9 While intensive farming has led to agricultural surpluses and the ability to consistently
feed Western populations, consumers have become increasingly concerned about
food safety, traceability, and sustainability. After more than fifty years of increasingly standardized
foods, many segments of the population desire a more varied diet.
During this same period, the AOC (appellations d’origine contrôlée) concept was steadily
winning converts. The basic principle was to enhance the soil and climate while creating
distinctive food products that have characteristics closely linked to the place of origin. This
continues as a trend with movements such as Slow Food (initially started in Torino, Italy)
and others that recognize the value of local foods and the potential problems associated with
intensive methods of production.