food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington

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Welcome to Inn on the Twenty Release Weekend Amuse-Bouche Pear-cardamom chutney in prosciutto Petit quiche of squash and Geai Bleu Scallop ceviche on pickled cucumber Cave Spring Cellars 2003 Brut Leek and camembert soup Pomegranate-glazed quail on baby arugula Pork tenderloin on quince purée CSV Riesling 2004 Insalata bianco Duck confit and pistachio with truffled greens Pan-seared Arctic char with vanilla corn beurre blanc Chardonnay Reserve 2003 Monkfish Bourguignon Grilled lamb chop with preserved lemon and white beans Seared veal tenderloin with tomato risotto Pinot Noir 2004 Smoked wild boar and wild rice agnolotti in veal broth Garlic and anchovy shrimp Provençal Bone marrow custard with sel de mer Gamay Reserve 2004 Balsamic crème caramel Riesling-and-spice-poached pear Crème fraiche almond tart Indian Summer Late Harvest Riesling 2004 Identifying Flavor Types in Wine and Food 211 Which dishes do you believe will have complementary or contrasting flavor types? Which combinations do you think should have the best match in flavor intensity and persistency? Why? IDENTIFYING FLAVOR TYPES IN WINE AND FOOD The first step in evaluating the flavor factors in food is to determine the dominant flavor(s) present. As previously noted, there is a range of flavor types that includes flavors such as fruity, nutty, smoky, cheesy, buttery, herbal, meaty, umami, and earthy. While this may seem straightforward, the perception of flavor is impacted by the interrelationships of salt, sugar, acids, and texture as well as by the in-mouth flavor identification process. For example, without sufficient levels of acid and sweetness, fruit flavors such as strawberry fall flat when tasted in the mouth. 3
212 Chapter 10 Flavor Intensity and Flavor Persistency In-Mouth Process Determining flavor type and intensity is based on aroma perception and retronasal olfaction (the smell of a food or wine once it’s in your mouth, which is due to the connection between the oral and nasal cavities). Much of what you perceive as taste or flavor is primarily driven by your ability to smell. To maximize your potential when identifying aromas in wine and food, you need to follow the simple nosing steps described in Chapter 2. When evaluating wine, fill the glass no more than one-third full. This will allow you to properly swirl the wine and fully release aromas. Tilt the glass toward you and place your nose inside the bowl. Take one deep sniff or three or four short sniffs, then remove your nose from the glass to consider the aromas. This is what is considered the ‘‘first nose’’ of the wine, providing you with your first impressions of the aroma. After swirling the wine a second time and allowing the aromas to open up more fully, follow the same smelling procedure. Many times, in this ‘‘second nose,’’ you will notice aromas different from those you detected in the first nose. This process can be done for food while it is on a plate, in a cup, or on a fork. A challenge when identifying and assessing the intensity of in-mouth flavors is maximizing the ability to detect specific flavors and their intensity. Numerous research studies have evaluated the impact that talking, swallowing, exhaling through the nose, chewing, and tongue movements have on an evaluator’s perception of in-mouth flavors. 4 When identifying flavors in food and wine, the main objectives are to release the flavor components while in the oral cavity, and to ensure that the back-of-the-mouth nasal cavity is open. As you swallow and talk, the nasal cavity closes, limiting access to retro-nasal flavors. To release the flavor components in wine and other liquids, it is helpful to retain the product in the oral cavity for several seconds (up to a minute) with normal breathing. Once the time has passed, the air is deliberately exhaled through the nose. This process ensures that the nasal cavity is open to help you to better assess types of flavors and their intensity. Some wine evaluators will suck in additional air through the mouth to intensify flavor sensations. Chewing releases flavor compounds in some foods, assisting in maximizing in-mouth flavors and identification. As with liquids, experiments have demonstrated that food molecules released into the airspace of the oral cavity will proceed to the nasal cavity if air is exhaled through the nose while the lips are closed. 5 FOOD FLAVOR CATEGORIES Once you have tasted a food item, note the dominant flavor(s) present. Also note any other flavors present in the food. Most of the major food flavors are fairly self-explanatory. However, one that may need additional discussion is umami, identified by Japanese flavor researchers. In Japanese, the word umami basically translates as ‘‘deliciousness.’’ Most wine and food pairing books suggest that umami is not generally a key driver when matching food and wine. 6 Further, pairing experts suggest umami is a concept similar to savoriness or meatiness in terms of a pairing characteristic. 7 For our purposes, umami is described as the flavor associated with sources such as soy products, mushrooms, MSG, meat glazes, and tomatoes. While umami is not a main factor in wine and food matching, it does create a wine-friendly characteristic in food that makes certain foods more versatile with regard to matching them with various wines. A suggestion for pairing wines to foods with umami flavors is to use medium- to full-bodied red wines depending on the strength of the umami flavor present in the food item. Highly intense umami flavor will overshadow light whites, but less intense umami-flavored dishes work well with all types of white wines. Earthy food flavors provide a positive, wine-friendly element in many foods, including garlic, potatoes, mushrooms, truffles, some cheeses, rainbow trout, beans, and many grains. Earthy foods work particularly well with wines that have earthy elements. Wines from the
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FOOD AND WINE PAIRING A SENSORY EXP
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FOOD AND WINE PAIRING A SENSORY EXP
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PREFACE xi ACKNOWLEDGMENTS xiii CON
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Summary 111 Exercises 112 CHAPTER 6
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CHAPTER 13: THE GRAND FINALE: DESSE
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xii Preface PEDAGOGICAL FEATURES TH
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PART A MASTERING THE ART AND SCIENC
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CHAPTER 1 THE WINE AND FOOD PYRAMID
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Aperitif/The Italian Wine and Food
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Aperitif/The Italian Wine and Food
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Food and Wine Pairing Mechanics: Ma
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OVERVIEW OF BOOK METHODS Wine and f
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Wine Sensory Pyramid The Wine Senso
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Classic Italian Wine and Food Examp
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The Pinot Bianco tames the asparagu
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20 Chapter 2 Taste Basics and the B
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CHAPTER 3 GASTRONOMIC IDENTITY: THE
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on prevailing components, textures,
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Aperitif/How Should Menus and Wine
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Wine: The Impact of Geography and C
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Table 3.1 Approximate Climate Zones
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Wine: The Impact of Geography and C
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Trial and Error, Innovations, and C
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number of reasons why these general
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tasting panel members would be Fren
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NOTES 1. B. Santich, ‘‘The Stud
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66 Chapter 4 Gastronomic Identity I
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PART B THE FOUNDATION: FOOD AND WIN
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at all. Dryness and sweetness for t
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CHAPTER 5 THE IMPACT OF SWEETNESS A
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THE IMPACT OF SWEETNESS LEVELS IN W
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Table 5.1 Wine Sweetness Level Desc
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with a fruit/sweet sauce, choose a
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Table 5.3 Acidity Level Description
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unoaked white is preferred when pai
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STEPS Exercise 5.1 113 1. Buy the w
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Evaluator’s Name: _______________
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STEPS Table 5.8 Wine and Food Sweet
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d. White Zinfandel Worst match 1.
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This exercise is designed to establ
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The basic rule for wine and food pa
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CHAPTER 6 SALT, BITTERNESS, AND BUB
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sauce, vegetarian spring rolls, gla
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not a dominant characteristic in wi
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Table 6.3 Sweetness Levels in Spark
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Figure 6.2 1 Wine— No Bubbles Win
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MATERIALS NEEDED Table 6.5 Material
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STEPS Saltiness Name:______________
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BITTERNESS Exercise 6.1 143 1. Prep
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PART C WINE AND FOOD TEXTURE CHARAC
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Main texture measures used in food
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150 Chapter 7 Wine Texture Characte
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Page 204 and 205: PART D FLAVORS: ARCHITECTURAL ELEME
Page 206 and 207: CHAPTER 9 THE IMPACT OF SPICE CHAPT
Page 208 and 209: Aperitif/Bayou La Seine: An America
Page 210 and 211: Ingredients for Sauce 28 oz (800 g)
Page 212 and 213: How Spice Is Assessed: Identifying
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Page 216 and 217: Name____________________ Spice Food
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C O M P O N E N T S T E X T U R E F
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Flavor Similarity Contrast Score Lo
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STEPS Table 11.2 Wines, Food Items,
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Food Item: Grilled Sirloin Yield: 6
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270 Chapter 12 Wine and Cheese: A N
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282 STEPS Chapter 12 Wine and Chees
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288 Chapter 13 The Grand Finale: De
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304 STEPS Chapter 13 The Grand Fina
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308 Chapter 14 The Customer Experie
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314 Glossary Consistency. Refers to
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316 Glossary percent fat content an
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318 Index Botrytis cinerea 291-292
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320 Index Grassiness 38 213 Graves
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322 Index Spice(s) 190, 192, 194, 1
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