food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington

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Chapter 10 Flavor Intensity and Flavor Persistency
Fruity wines paired with smoky foods can create the same type of pleasant flavor contrast.
Of course, the key to a successful flavor contrast match is to also ensure the components,
texture, and spice characteristics are a match.
Finally, achieving a flavor intensity match plays an important role in the quest for a
synergistic relationship between wine and food. Research indicates that tasting foods with a
high level of flavor intensity prior to drinking wines of lower flavor intensity lowers the
perceived flavor characteristics of the wine. For example, the flavors in blue cheese substantially
decrease perception of flavors in white wine such as apple, citrus, oak, and herbal. 12
Without a flavor intensity match, the relationship at best will be one in which either the
food or the wine is only a supporting actor; at worst, it can be a total mismatch.
ASSESSING FLAVOR PERSISTENCY
Flavor persistency is the final criterion used in the pairing decision process. Defined as
‘‘continuance of an effect after the cause is removed,’’ 13 persistence can be a pleasant and
important indicator of wine and food quality, or it can create a negative aftertaste. Aftertaste
is defined as ‘‘a taste that remains in the mouth after a food has been swallowed.’’ 14 In wine
terminology, persistency is described as length (longueur in French and longitude in Spanish)
or finish (fin de bouche in French and final de boca in Spanish). 15
Wine Flavor Persistency Several terms have been used synonymously for persistency
in wine tasting. Finish is defined as the final sensations of wine on the palate, length
is defined as persistency in flavor, 16 and aftertaste as the impressions that linger after the wine
is swallowed or spit out.
Flavor persistency is an indicator of the quality of wine and may also reveal flaws that
might not have been apparent in the initial stages of tasting. For instance, a bitter aftertaste
may be initially perceived as astringency. Improper storage or handling of wine can create
unpleasant aftertastes, or they may occur due to the presence of spent yeasts or lactic acid
left in a wine that has not been properly fermented or stabilized. 17 By contrast, one indicator
of a good wine is when the length has a clean, balanced, and complete structure and the
complete flavors linger in a long finish. A wine with good flavor persistency provides more
bang for your buck—you get more flavor out of each sip.
Flavor persistency is an evolutionary process that occurs during the final phases of the
tasting process. A common method of assessing flavor persistency is to time how long the
flavor lingers and how long the aromatic sensations are apparent after swallowing or spitting.
The measurement of flavor persistency begins with the concept of finish and moves on to
the persistence of flavor, which generally lasts for approximately 3 to 15 seconds. Finally,
there is potential for an unpleasant taste or aftertaste, which may indicate a faulty wine. 18 In
terms of the aftertaste of wine, a good white wine leaves the mouth scented and gently
motivated by fresh acidity; a good red wine fills the mouth with its retronasal smells and
the rich character of its tannin. 19
An important consideration of wine quality is the aromatic element in a wine’s finish.
Aromatic persistence is likely created by the least volatile and most durable flavor compounds
inherent in a wine. It can be difficult to isolate this aspect from the other sensations. 20 In
my study, flavor intensity and flavor persistence were shown to be closely and strongly
connected by the majority of the tasting panel. 21 While the flavor intensity and flavor persistence
of wine and food can be closely connected, they are separate issues. Intensity relates
to initial power or force, while persistence relates to the length and aftertaste of the sensation.
Other issues related to flavor quality are the refinement of flavor and aromas and their
appeal. 22