food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington

210
Chapter 10 Flavor Intensity and Flavor Persistency
While flavors in food or wine may not be the most important
element driving pairing decisions, they are generally
the most interesting. It is important to note that flavors in wine
come from different sources than flavors in food, and so wine
flavor words such as fruity, spicy, or herbal are generally metaphoric
in nature. As noted in Chapter 9 in regard to spiciness,
do not assume that a wine and food make a good match just
because they can be described with the same adjectives. In
most cases, it is easier to match food with wine based on
contrasting flavors—for example, matching smoky foods with
flowery wines such as Riesling, or matching spices such as
cinnamon, clove, or saffron in food with the herbal or grassy
character of Sauvignon Blanc. If a food and wine truly have
similar flavors, they will usually go well together.
Matching the flavor intensity of food and beverage
items is an important element in creating a synergistic match.
Matching intensity creates a sense of balance and equal footing
between the wine and the food. Flavor intensity may be
perceived at a variety of levels, ranging from virtually nonexistent
to extremely strong.
Assessing flavor attributes in food and beverages is less
straightforward than evaluating taste components (sweet,
sour, salty, bitter) or tactile elements (texture). The measuring
instrument used to assess flavor intensity—a human being—
is an extremely sensitive device, but it also is relatively unreliable
due to a variety of psychological factors, physiological
factors, and individual differences, among other reasons. Have
you ever tasted something that reminded you of a certain time
or event? Do you have a memory of flavor that inspires you?
Disgusts you? Or makes you feel excited? All of us have specific
and individual reactions to flavors based on past experiences.
Complicating this task further is the fact that food and
wine flavors are unstable. The food and beverage products
being examined are in a dynamic state and are impacted by
changes in temperature and exposure to the external environ-
ment. 2
Aperitif Release Weekend Wine and Food Menu from On the Twenty
The following sections provide an overview of what to
consider when determining flavor identification, flavor intensity,
and flavor persistency of food and wine items. This discussion
and the exercises that follow will provide you with a
better understanding of the measurement process and the associated
potential pitfalls to help you to fine-tune your personal
human measurement instrument.
On the Twenty, Ontario’s first and best-known estate winery restaurant, is consistently rated as one of the
finest restaurants in Canada. The culinary team is led by Kevin Maniaci and is committed to the flavors
of Niagara’s bountiful harvest. The restaurant is located in the Inn on the Twenty, which comprises a
twenty-four-room main inn, Vintage House, Winemaker’s Cottage, and full-service spa. The Inn on the
Twenty is located in the village of Jordan on the Niagara Peninsula, Ontario. The wine list features Vintner’s
Quality Alliance (VQA) wines from Cave Spring Cellars as well as other VQA wines of Canada.
Cave Spring Cellars is located across the street, and visitors are welcome to tour the winery and
sample its well-regarded wines. Cave Spring Cellars was founded in 1986 by grape grower Leonard Pennachetti
and winemaker Angelo Pavan. The vineyards are nestled along Niagara’s Beamsville Bench at the
heart of the Niagara Escarpment. Cave Spring has one of Niagara’s oldest vinifera plantings.
Additional information about On the Twenty or Cave Spring Cellars can be obtained by visiting their
Web sites at www.innonthetwenty.com and www.cavespringcellars.com.
The food-and-wine menu shown here is from a recent release weekend, when new Cave Spring
Cellars wines are released for sale. It features three tastings per course to create multiple sensations with
the featured wines. This menu underscores the concepts introduced in this chapter regarding flavor type,
flavor intensity, and flavor persistency. This provides a great experience for the guest, highlighting a variety
of synergistic food-and-wine matches in every course.