food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington

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CHAPTER 12 WINE AND CHEESE: A NATURAL AFFINITY? CHAPTER OUTLINE: Introduction Aperitif: Cheese, An Inspiration and an Education Wine and Cheese Pairing Cheese Categories Summary Exercises KEY CONCEPTS: ● Balance and harmony between wine and cheese ● Limitations of red wine with cheese ● The impact of cheese type and wine friendliness 269
270 Chapter 12 Wine and Cheese: A Natural Affinity? INTRODUCTION The old wine merchant’s tenet is that when you buy wine, taste it with apples, as it will be at its worst, and sell wine when buyers taste it with cheese, as it will be at its best. What is it about wine and cheese that creates such a positive gastronomic response? In its simplest role, wine acts to cleanse the palate. This occurs due to a basic ‘‘washing’’ action as well as increased saliva production caused by tannic wines and ethanol (alcohol). This cleansing process minimizes sensory fatigue. Alternating wine with food helps to freshen the palate for more wine. Further, the fat, proteins, and acid inherent in cheese combine with acids and tannin in wine to soften the impact of acid, bitter, and astringent sensations that are typical of most Aperitif Cheese, an Inspiration and an Education white and red wines. The dilution of alcohol when wine is consumed with food in general and cheese in particular is thought to promote the release of wine aromatics and create a more pleasant finish. Despite these characteristics (or perhaps in part because of them), the main reason people consume wine and cheese together is that they enjoy the combination. Artisanal cheese makers and knowledgeable restaurateurs create an opportunity for us to maximize this enjoyment. The following description by Etienne Boissy of his experience in the French competition Meilleur Ouvrier de France provides an interesting example not only of the innovative process used in cheese production and service but also of pushing the envelope in a competitive environment. Le Concours du Meilleur Ouvrier de France is an annual competition in France that has as its goal the search for professional excellence, bringing together individual performance and economic adaptation. The competition, whose name literally translates as ‘‘the contest of the best workmen in France,’’ is a symbol of excellence and is held every three years, with over two hundred trades represented. Values that are rewarded in this contest include manual skills, intelligence, imagination, taste, technicality, courage, and perseverance. The category of ‘‘trades of the mouth’’ includes cuisine, pastry, baking, and cheese. Etienne Boissy is the coordinator of pedagogy and a professor of table arts at the Paul Bocuse Institute near Lyon, France. He received a Meilleur Ouvrier de France award in cheese in 2004. For the competition, Etienne included a variety of cheeses made from cow’s, goat’s, or sheep’s milk as well as a variety of styles (fresh, semisoft, hard, blue). Below he describes the theme and creative process he used to create his winning presentation for the competition. ‘‘The competition that I won in order to become Meilleur Ouvrier de France de Fromage 2004 [Best Cheese Craftsman in France 2004] was based on the subject of time. What better theme is an invitation to think deeply about fine cheeses? It is this reflection about time that finally led me to create the cheese installation that ultimately became the winning entry. ‘‘In order to imagine this winning structure, I turned first toward clock faces for inspiration and second toward the two materials insisted upon by the 2004 competition: beech wood and Plexiglas. ‘‘When speaking of cheese and its history, time and the maturation process are key, given that, the period of maturation varies according to the type of cheese. It is both human factors and storage conditions that allow a cheese to assert itself owing to the lactic cultures, mold, fungi, and yeasts that form. The changes are apparent with each passing day: the color, the texture, the smell and the taste become stronger, the whole cheese develops toward excellence—over time. In thinking about time, I was aware that time and space have long been understood to be relative and, in a sense, unified. The solar system in which our planet moves situates the earth in a wider galaxy appropriately known as the Milky Way. This enormous Milky Way and all that it represents brings us to the heart of the subject: the ability of man to work in harmony with nature and her cycles in the transformation of milk into cheese during time.
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FOOD AND WINE PAIRING A SENSORY EXP
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FOOD AND WINE PAIRING A SENSORY EXP
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PREFACE xi ACKNOWLEDGMENTS xiii CON
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Summary 111 Exercises 112 CHAPTER 6
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CHAPTER 13: THE GRAND FINALE: DESSE
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xii Preface PEDAGOGICAL FEATURES TH
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PART A MASTERING THE ART AND SCIENC
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CHAPTER 1 THE WINE AND FOOD PYRAMID
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Aperitif/The Italian Wine and Food
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Aperitif/The Italian Wine and Food
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Food and Wine Pairing Mechanics: Ma
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OVERVIEW OF BOOK METHODS Wine and f
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Wine Sensory Pyramid The Wine Senso
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Classic Italian Wine and Food Examp
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The Pinot Bianco tames the asparagu
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20 Chapter 2 Taste Basics and the B
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CHAPTER 3 GASTRONOMIC IDENTITY: THE
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on prevailing components, textures,
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Aperitif/How Should Menus and Wine
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Wine: The Impact of Geography and C
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Table 3.1 Approximate Climate Zones
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Wine: The Impact of Geography and C
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Trial and Error, Innovations, and C
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number of reasons why these general
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tasting panel members would be Fren
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NOTES 1. B. Santich, ‘‘The Stud
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66 Chapter 4 Gastronomic Identity I
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PART B THE FOUNDATION: FOOD AND WIN
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at all. Dryness and sweetness for t
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CHAPTER 5 THE IMPACT OF SWEETNESS A
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THE IMPACT OF SWEETNESS LEVELS IN W
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Table 5.1 Wine Sweetness Level Desc
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with a fruit/sweet sauce, choose a
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Table 5.3 Acidity Level Description
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unoaked white is preferred when pai
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STEPS Exercise 5.1 113 1. Buy the w
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Evaluator’s Name: _______________
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STEPS Table 5.8 Wine and Food Sweet
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d. White Zinfandel Worst match 1.
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This exercise is designed to establ
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The basic rule for wine and food pa
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CHAPTER 6 SALT, BITTERNESS, AND BUB
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sauce, vegetarian spring rolls, gla
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not a dominant characteristic in wi
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Table 6.3 Sweetness Levels in Spark
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Figure 6.2 1 Wine— No Bubbles Win
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MATERIALS NEEDED Table 6.5 Material
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STEPS Saltiness Name:______________
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BITTERNESS Exercise 6.1 143 1. Prep
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PART C WINE AND FOOD TEXTURE CHARAC
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Main texture measures used in food
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150 Chapter 7 Wine Texture Characte
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166 OBJECTIVE Chapter 7 Wine Textur
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168 Chapter 8 Fattiness, Cooking Me
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PART D FLAVORS: ARCHITECTURAL ELEME
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CHAPTER 9 THE IMPACT OF SPICE CHAPT
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Aperitif/Bayou La Seine: An America
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Ingredients for Sauce 28 oz (800 g)
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How Spice Is Assessed: Identifying
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Food Item: ________________________
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Name____________________ Spice Food
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For this exercise, I suggest using
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In this exercise, which involves id
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Try a variety of wine styles (white
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208 Chapter 10 Flavor Intensity and
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Page 331 and 332: 314 Glossary Consistency. Refers to
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318 Index Botrytis cinerea 291-292
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320 Index Grassiness 38 213 Graves
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322 Index Spice(s) 190, 192, 194, 1
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