food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington

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not a dominant characteristic in wine, and it is not included as a primary wine component. 6 When bitterness is present in wine, it can provide a pleasant additional layer of excitement (as can bitterness in food), but high levels of bitterness are not desirable in wine, and they are not a good thing in food-and-wine pairing. Unlike other matched components such as sweetness or acidity, matching a bitter food with a bitter wine just creates an intense bitter taste. Bitterness in food magnifies the sensations of tannin in wine. Sweetness (residual sugar) in wine reduces the impact of food bitterness. SPARKLING WINE AND PAIRING Sparkling wine made in France outside of the Champagne region is labeled vin mousseux. Sparkling wines are called spumante in Italy, Sekt in Germany, cava in Spain, and cap classique in South Africa. 7 The effervescence in Champagne and other sparkling wines is often called bubbles, stars, or sparklers. Sparkling wine can be created using several methods. The most common methods use two fermentations, with the second fermentation trapping dissolved carbon dioxide gas in the wine. The method used can substantially impact the sensory and quality characteristics of the wine (as well as the price of the wine). The traditional Champagne method (méthode champenoise) is considered by most to create the highest-quality sparkling wines. The level of effervescence is defined by the amount of bubbles present in a wine product. Wine evaluators assess effervescence in four areas: the amount of bubbles (the number of bubbles in a bottle of good sparkling wine is estimated to be about 49 million), 8 their size (smaller bubbles provide evidence of skilled technique in the traditional Champagne method), their consistency (consistency in bubble size and intensity), and how long they last (bubbles should not dissipate quickly after the bottle is opened or the wine is poured). All of these areas are an indication of quality in a sparkling wine. For the purpose of food-and-wine pairing, there are a number of criteria to consider when pairing food with sparkling wine. Sparkling wines come in a variety of body styles, acidity levels, sweetness levels, and effervescence levels. Body style in sparkling wine is determined by the producer. Within the Champagne region, body styles vary from light to full-bodied. As with other wines, body style is determined by the type of grapes used, fermentation method, and growing region. Sparkling wines in the Champagne region are made from one of three types of grapes: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Meunier. Most American producers of quality sparkling wines adhere to this list, but the varietals used vary by climate zone. Table 6.1 provides a list of varietals used by the majority of quality sparkling wine producers in cool, moderate, and warm climates. Body The body style is determined by the producer and is dependent on the grapes used, fermentation, aging, and climate. The term blanc de blancs is used to designate white wine made only from white grapes, traditionally Chardonnay. The term blanc de noirs refers to white wine made only from black (red) grapes, traditionally Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir adds depth, complexity, and fullness to the sparkling wine. Chardonnay grapes grown in a cool climate such as Champagne allows the grapes to stay on the vine for a longer period. Cooler climates allow Chardonnay grapes to retain a desirable level of acidity, needed to achieve greater complexity during the aging process. 9 Table 6.2 provides specific examples of sparkling wines produced in the Champagne region, grouped by increasing body. This list points out the influence of the house style on body even when the sparkling wines come from the same growing region. Sparklers are usually made as a white or rosé wine. Rosé sparkling wines are less common than whites and have a fuller body style on average. Rosé sparkling wine can stand Sparkling Wine and Pairing 133
134 Chapter 6 Salt, Bitterness, and Bubbles Table 6.1 Varietals Used in Méthode Champenoise Production Cool Regions Moderate Regions Warm Regions Pinot Noir Chardonnay Meunier Gamay Pinot Blanc Chenin Blanc Chardonnay Pinot Noir Gamay Meunier Parallada Chardonnay Xarello Mabaceo Pinot Noir Chenin Blanc Meunier Sémillon Source: B. Zoecklein, ‘‘A Review of Méthode Champenoise Production,’’ Virginia Cooperative Extension and Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University, Blacksburg, 2002. up to pâtés, ham, beef, and game dishes. A unique sparkling wine is an Australian red made from Shiraz (Bancock Station). The full body and off-dry sweetness level of this sparkler make it a good choice with dishes such as lamb curry. Body style in sparkling wine can have a substantial impact on wine and food matches. More specific issues of the importance of texture and body in wine and food are presented in the upcoming chapters. For now, be aware that sparkling wines vary substantially in body weight, and these differences are an important consideration in pairing choices. Acidity There are a number of environmental and viticultural factors that ultimately impact the palatability of a finished sparkling wine, including canopy climate, meso- and microclimates, rootstock, temperature, and pruning techniques. The complexity of these and other relationships creates difficulties for producers of sparkling wine beyond those of still wines. 10 Champagne, France, is the most northern region for sparkling wine other than Mosel, Germany. As with still table wines, climate impacts the level of acidity in a finished product. Warm-climate Chardonnay has a tendency to have a narrow flavor profile and lacks a sense of freshness, liveliness, and length of finish. Sparkling wines that lack these factors will not have the ability of higher-quality sparkling wines to cleanse and refresh the palate, especially if foods are salty or bitter. Sweetness Unlike many other wine categories, sparkling wines are available in a wide range of sweetness levels from bone dry to very sweet. European countries have voluntary standards for levels of residual sugar in sparkling wines. There are six basic levels of sweetness, outlined in Table 6.3. Brut nature is less common, has a residual sugar level of 0–0.5 Table 6.2 Body Style of a Few Champagnes Light-Bodied and Lovely Laurent-Perrier Lanson Duetz G. H. Mumm Perrier-Jouët Taittinger Pommery Medium-Bodied and Rich Charles Heidsieck Piper-Heidsieck Pol Roger Henriot Bruno Paillard Paul Goerg Moët et Chandon Full-Bodied and Bodacious Louis Roederer ‘‘Cristal’’ Bollinger ‘‘Special Cuvée’’ A. Gratien Krug ‘‘Grande Cuvee’’ Veuve Clicquot Gosset
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FOOD AND WINE PAIRING A SENSORY EXP
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FOOD AND WINE PAIRING A SENSORY EXP
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PREFACE xi ACKNOWLEDGMENTS xiii CON
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Summary 111 Exercises 112 CHAPTER 6
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CHAPTER 13: THE GRAND FINALE: DESSE
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xii Preface PEDAGOGICAL FEATURES TH
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PART A MASTERING THE ART AND SCIENC
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CHAPTER 1 THE WINE AND FOOD PYRAMID
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Aperitif/The Italian Wine and Food
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Aperitif/The Italian Wine and Food
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Food and Wine Pairing Mechanics: Ma
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OVERVIEW OF BOOK METHODS Wine and f
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Wine Sensory Pyramid The Wine Senso
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Classic Italian Wine and Food Examp
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The Pinot Bianco tames the asparagu
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20 Chapter 2 Taste Basics and the B
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CHAPTER 3 GASTRONOMIC IDENTITY: THE
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on prevailing components, textures,
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Aperitif/How Should Menus and Wine
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Wine: The Impact of Geography and C
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Table 3.1 Approximate Climate Zones
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Wine: The Impact of Geography and C
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Trial and Error, Innovations, and C
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number of reasons why these general
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tasting panel members would be Fren
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NOTES 1. B. Santich, ‘‘The Stud
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66 Chapter 4 Gastronomic Identity I
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Page 126 and 127: Table 5.3 Acidity Level Description
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Page 130 and 131: STEPS Exercise 5.1 113 1. Buy the w
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Page 146 and 147: CHAPTER 6 SALT, BITTERNESS, AND BUB
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184 Chapter 8 Fattiness, Cooking Me
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PART D FLAVORS: ARCHITECTURAL ELEME
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CHAPTER 9 THE IMPACT OF SPICE CHAPT
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Aperitif/Bayou La Seine: An America
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Ingredients for Sauce 28 oz (800 g)
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How Spice Is Assessed: Identifying
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Food Item: ________________________
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Name____________________ Spice Food
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For this exercise, I suggest using
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In this exercise, which involves id
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Try a variety of wine styles (white
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208 Chapter 10 Flavor Intensity and
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The previous chapters have presente
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CHAPTER 11 MENU PLANNING: HORIZONTA
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The Food of the Pacific Northwest 2
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Basic Wine Sequencing Recommendatio
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Basic Wine Sequencing Recommendatio
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Soup Course This menu item incorpor
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Pacific Northwest Menu 243 Food Ite
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This finished dish is full-bodied,
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While aged cheddar complements just
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Wine and Food Pairing Instrument 24
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C O M P O N E N T S T E X T U R E F
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A Profiling Approach to Match Level
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Food Item:_________________________
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Smoked Corn & Chicken Pasta Penne p
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Components Similarity Contrast Scor
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C O M P O N E N T S T E X T U R E F
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Flavor Similarity Contrast Score Lo
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STEPS Table 11.2 Wines, Food Items,
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Food Item: Grilled Sirloin Yield: 6
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270 Chapter 12 Wine and Cheese: A N
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282 STEPS Chapter 12 Wine and Chees
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288 Chapter 13 The Grand Finale: De
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304 STEPS Chapter 13 The Grand Fina
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308 Chapter 14 The Customer Experie
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314 Glossary Consistency. Refers to
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316 Glossary percent fat content an
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318 Index Botrytis cinerea 291-292
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320 Index Grassiness 38 213 Graves
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322 Index Spice(s) 190, 192, 194, 1
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