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food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington

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90<br />

Chapter 4 Gastronomic Identity II: Food <strong>and</strong> Cuisine<br />

thinly atop everything from pasta, to salads<br />

<strong>and</strong> carpaccio. In this case, it is added<br />

as a garnish at the end of the risotto preparation.<br />

White truffles are one of the most<br />

heavenly <strong>food</strong>s in the world—<strong>and</strong> are<br />

priced accordingly. Late fall white truffles<br />

are superior to summer truffles, <strong>and</strong> I find<br />

the Italian white truffles to be superior to<br />

the New World ones that are currently<br />

available. However, Oregon white truffles<br />

make a reasonable substitute at a much<br />

lower cost.<br />

The Grilled Portobello Mushrooms<br />

provide an earthy <strong>and</strong> meaty example<br />

for <strong>wine</strong> <strong>pairing</strong>. The portobello is a big<br />

brown mushroom—an overgrown crimini.<br />

Portobellos have become a popular<br />

‘‘vegetarian meat’’ across the United<br />

States.<br />

There are several <strong>wine</strong> styles that<br />

can be investigated from both the Old<br />

World <strong>and</strong> New World with these items.<br />

MATERIALS NEEDED<br />

While performing this tasting exercise,<br />

you should assess the impact of a <strong>food</strong>’s<br />

earthiness on the <strong>wine</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>food</strong> relationship.<br />

Does it enhance the relationship<br />

across the board? Or is the match dependent<br />

on the <strong>wine</strong>? How does the richness<br />

of the <strong>food</strong> item interact with the light or<br />

rich body of the <strong>wine</strong>? What impact did<br />

cooking technique have on this body relationship?<br />

What part does <strong>wine</strong> sweetness<br />

<strong>and</strong> acidity play in this relationship?<br />

Could you differentiate Old World from<br />

New World <strong>wine</strong>s of the same varietal?<br />

OBJECTIVES<br />

The primary objectives of this exercise<br />

are to compare the distinct differences<br />

between Old World <strong>and</strong> New World <strong>wine</strong><br />

styles as well as to expose you to the<br />

compatibility of earthy <strong>food</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>wine</strong> flavors<br />

with a body match. It also will ex-<br />

Table 4.4 Materials Needed for Exercise 4.2<br />

1 white paper placemat per student with numbered circles<br />

to place <strong>wine</strong>glasses (Figure 4.2)<br />

1 spit cup per student Napkins<br />

pose you to how cooking techniques affect<br />

the relationship between matching<br />

<strong>food</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>wine</strong> levels. This exercise ties in<br />

with the discussion of gastronomic identity,<br />

Old World <strong>and</strong> New World characteristics<br />

of <strong>wine</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>food</strong>, <strong>and</strong> climate<br />

differences in varietal characteristics.<br />

Mise en Place: Things to Do Before<br />

the Exercise First, review the discussion<br />

of how the differences between<br />

the Old World <strong>and</strong> New World manifest<br />

in <strong>food</strong>. Also, make sure that the production<br />

of the <strong>food</strong>s is well planned out to<br />

ensure that hot <strong>food</strong> will be served at the<br />

right temperature. Mise en place for the<br />

recipes should be done in advance <strong>and</strong><br />

plans for transporting the item samples<br />

to each taster <strong>and</strong> the cleanup process<br />

should be determined ahead of time.<br />

Crackers to cleanse the palate<br />

Corkscrew Drinking water for each student<br />

Utensils for tasting <strong>food</strong> 4 <strong>wine</strong>glasses per student<br />

Prepared dishes: Duxelles, Black Truffle Mashed Potatoes.<br />

White Truffle Risotto, Grilled Portobellos<br />

White Wines Red Wines<br />

Old World Chardonnay (white Burgundy)—select a <strong>wine</strong> from<br />

Mâcon, Pouilly-Fumé, Chablis, Meursault, or Chassagne-<br />

Montrachet<br />

New World—select a Chardonnay from Australia, California,<br />

Chile, or Argentina<br />

Plates <strong>and</strong> bowls to serve dishes<br />

Old World Pinot Noir (red<br />

Burgundy)—select a <strong>wine</strong> from<br />

Mercurey, Santenay, Bourgogne,<br />

Savigny-les-Beaune, or Nuits St.<br />

Georges<br />

New World—select a Pinot Noir<br />

from Oregon, cool regions of<br />

California or New Zeal<strong>and</strong><br />

Optional <strong>wine</strong> suggestions for additional comparisons include Italian Barolo or Barbaresco (from the Nebbiolo grape) <strong>and</strong>/or<br />

Spanish Fino, Manzanilla, or Oloroso Sherries.<br />

Students should bring the following to the tasting exercise: a copy of the Aroma Wheel, <strong>and</strong> the glossary (at the end of this<br />

book).

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