food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington

Soup Course This menu item incorporates regional ingredients (lingcod and geoduck
clams), local cooking methods (smoking), and ethnic influences (Asian culture). The chowder
can be served in a regular bowl or, for an added twist, in a carved-out green papaya. The
geoduck sashimi is basically a ceviche. Geoduck clams are huge—a single one weighs between
3 and 5 pounds (about 2 kg) and can be purchased fresh or as frozen meat. For this
item, the geoduck sashimi should be stirred into the hot chowder at the last minute to make
sure that it does not get tough. For this event, the clam was served in an Asian soup spoon
next to the soup bowl, and then the guests stirred it into the chowder when it arrived at the
table. Lingcod is a popular and modestly priced regional fish. It is not technically a cod but
a white fish that looks similar to cod once filleted.
The wine selection is the classic match of Gewürztraminer. Washington Gewürztraminer
is of high quality and a good value. In general, the wine has a spicy character and
good acidity and is off-dry. All of these elements work well with this moderately spicy dish
(which contains sweet spice and hot spice). The wine acid cuts through the coconut milk
and balances the food acidity from the geoduck and tomatoes. The wine’s slight sweetness
contrasts with the saltiness of the smoked fish and fish sauce. The selected wine for this
course (Columbia Valley Gewürztraminer) is semi-dry, has crisp acidity, and has an interesting
blend of fruit flavors, lime, and minerals. It holds its own with the spiciness and
acidity in the soup.
Food Item: Asian Chowder of Coconut, Smoked Lingcod, and
Geoduck Clam Sashimi
Yield: 6–8 servings
Ingredients
5–6 oz (150–160 g) geoduck clam (both
siphon and body meat), trimmed and
thinly sliced
1 /3 c (75 ml) fresh lime juice
2 tsp (20 ml) soy sauce
2 tbsp (25–30 ml) thinly sliced onions
Salt
White pepper
One 3–4-inch piece of fresh galangal
(available at most Asian markets)
4 c (900 ml) coconut milk
2 c (450 ml) chicken stock
2 tsp (20 ml) finely chopped red chilies
12 oz (340 g) smoked lingcod (you can
substitute other smoked fish)
3 tbsp (40 ml) Thai fish sauce
2 tsp (20 ml) brown sugar
1 /2 c (115 ml) chopped cilantro
1 c (225 ml) diced tomatoes (concassé)
Pacific Northwest Menu 241
Preparation
Place the clam meat in a glass bowl or platter. Combine the
lime juice, soy sauce, onions, and salt and white
pepper to taste and pour over the clam meat. Let
marinate for several hours or overnight. Peel the
galangal and cut it into thin slices. Combine the
galangal with the coconut milk and chicken stock in a
2- or 3-quart saucepan. Bring it to a boil, reduce the
heat, and simmer uncovered for about 10 minutes.
Stir the mixture occasionally while simmering. Add
the diced chilies to the mixture and simmer for an
additional 8 minutes. Cut the smoked fish into small
strips, add it to the soup mixture, and heat through.
Add the fish sauce and brown sugar. Taste for
seasoning and adjust as desired. To serve, add the
chopped cilantro and tomato concassé. Add the
geoduck sashimi at the time of service or present it
tableside and allow the guests to add it themselves.
Poultry Course The region around my hometown (Moses Lake, Washington) is well
known for its pheasant hunting. This pheasant dish integrates the German influence of the
central and eastern region of the state with an upgraded version of German bread dumplings
(known as Servietten Knödel). The grappa is added to the marinade to tenderize and flavor
the pheasant (you can substitute wine, beer, or other distilled beverages). This dish can be