food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington

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Chapter 7 Wine Texture Characteristics: Tannin, Oak, and Body
During their lessons in cuisine, the students were able to check the feasibility of the recipes and to
suggest some appropriate modifications with regard to preparation and with regard to the choice of ingredients,
in order for the recipes to be more precise sensory models.
Each of the pairings that we created through the modification or creation of a recipe and its suggested
Cognac should illustrate a specific aspect of the taste experience. We have worked on the textures, the
search for contrasts, and the olfactory and retro-olfactory qualities, and also on the capacity of these pairings
to satisfy the demands of tradition as well as those of the new Asian consumer.
Because this chapter focuses on the texture elements of food and drink, can you provide an example of texture
effects in your Cognac and food pairing examples?
By way of a texture example, here is the recipe designed to illustrate the field ‘‘soft, subtle, and
iodized’’: Gratin of Sea Urchin and Scallops with Cognac. This pairing goes beyond a simple marriage of
food and alcohol because the Cognac is an integral part of the dish: the sauce for the gratinée is made with
the Cognac (basically, a savory sabayon or a mousseline sauce with Cognac). The olfaction of the Cognac
is fully present. All aspects of the tasting are satisfied by the harmony and the continuity of the suggested
pairing. The multiplicity of textures is present in the zabaglione liquid, which meets the lightly cooked,
crisp yet tender caramelized scallops. We are aware of the audacity of this marriage—audacity being the
best defense against boredom or indifference. This contrast is visually present with the softness of the
zabaglione and the spikes of the sea urchin. The contrast is thus cognitive: the clients do not expect that
a Cognac would be offered with sea urchin and scallops!
Having completed this work, we prepared the recipes for the other taste fields and presented them
for a series of tastings and tests among the clientele of Saisons. The analysis of the tests showed us that
the clients are not stuck in their ways, nor in their tastes. On the contrary, when they are offered new
sensory experiences, their loyalty is often won—on condition, of course, that the products offered conform
to the clients’ expectations.
The concept of serving Cognac with food in a multicourse menu seems unique. What service issues did you find
with this concept?
An important observation is the extent to which the quality of service can greatly help offerings of
this type and ensure the clients’ pleasure. Service rituals allow the setting of standards, of norms—a codification
that ensures the quality of the service offered. During the early tastings and tests, we determined
a method for offering these pairings designed to make them more accessible and pleasing to the audience.
The rituals are also very important for more tangible reasons. The table arts and all that they imply
are an integral part of the gourmet’s pleasure; it is therefore necessary to recognize their value to the
guest and to give them prominence as a service element.
Finally, the clients who agree to partake of the offered pairings will be steered toward a world of
surprise and discovery. The service rituals serve as a kind of guide to prevent the client from feeling lost
in some kind of terra incognita. We know from studies into the psycho-sociology of taste that surprise is
an important element. Yet when pushed to the extreme and beyond all familiar references, it rarely leads
to satisfaction. Something of the familiar should always be present.
In the service of Cognac, we chose a classic tulip-shaped tasting glass from among the range of glasses
proposed by Hennessy in order to afford this tasting such ceremonial ritual as might enhance the proposed
products. For an optimal tasting experience, the glass must be maintained at the ideal temperature for
tasting.
Additionally, the service is explained in order to guide the guests in their tasting experience: