food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington

This finished dish is full-bodied, lightly smoky, and somewhat peppery. The buttermilk
marinade creates a smoother flavor and texture in the finished product. The use of the Syrah
in the marinade and sauce reduction marries the flavors when served with the same type of
wine. Syrah was selected because it usually has flavors of black pepper and is full-bodied,
and many of the winemakers in Washington produce some great examples using this varietal.
Of course, you can easily substitute a Cabernet Sauvignon or a wine based on the Syrah
grape from another region such as Côte du Rhône or Australia (where it’s called Shiraz).
However, the Syrahs from Washington State are unique in comparison to those of California,
Australia, or the Rhône Valley, since the terroir of the Columbia Valley creates wines with
their own characteristics and integrity. The soil and areas selected to grow Washington Syrah
are similar to those in the Côte du Rhône—south-facing, composed of shallow soil, pebbles,
stones, and lava pumice. This situation forces the Syrah vines to struggle, resulting in wines
with layers and layers of character. Good Washington Syrah will have earth, fruit, and spice.
Washington Syrah typically has less tannin, and its flavor can be anywhere from lean to big,
‘‘velvet hammer’’ to tannic and coarse.
The quality of these Syrahs is quite amazing given the fact that the first Syrah vineyard
was planted only in 1985 by David Lake. Lake liked Rhône wines and had faith that the
varietal would flourish in Washington. In 1988, Lake and Red Willow Vineyard owner Mike
Sauer produced Washington’s first Syrah under the Red Willow label. Today Syrah is grown
across the state. The quality and style of Syrah in the region varies: those grown in relatively
cool climates have a leaner structure, spice, pepper, and berry fruits; grapes from more
moderate climates make wines with a fuller structure and black fruits; and Syrah grapes
grown in warmer climates may exhibit a jammy character.
The Syrah selected for this menu was from McCrea Cellars. Doug McCrea was the
first to follow Lake’s lead in producing Syrah in Washington. His first Syrah was released
in 1994. The McCrea Syrah selected for this menu is made from grapes from the Boushey
Vineyard, located on a steep, south-facing slope along the Rattlesnake Hills. The wine is
reminiscent of the Côte Rôtie in style with ‘‘a meatier side, almost bacon fat, and with a
core of sweet fruit.’’ 5 This wine is from the 2002 vintage, which was a relatively warm year
in Washington State, resulting in fruit-forward and slightly higher-alcohol table wines. This
wine is well balanced with fruit intensity, tannins, and excellent acidity.
Pacific Northwest Menu 245