food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington

TANNIN
Tannin creates a sensation in wine known as astringency. It is separate from the sensation
of bitterness and is often described as ‘‘puckeriness.’’ Generally, tannin level is a
defining factor in where a wine falls on the smooth-to-rough (or soft-to-hard) continuum. 1
The feeling of tannin in wine is primarily based on the type of grape used but also is
determined by the length of soak (with skins, stems, or seeds intact) during the winemaking
process, the amount of aging in wood, and the age of the wine itself. Red wines made from
thicker-skinned grapes generally have the most tannin. White wines generally have little or
no tannin. When tannin is present in white wine, it is usually imparted during the aging
process from newer oak barrels.
The length of soak and the pressing process can create an unpleasant bitter taste in
wine as well. Wine bitterness virtually always creates pairing problems, for no matter what
you serve with it, the wine will always taste bitter. A slightly bitter sensation is frequently
present in red wines but is, in a sense, an acquired taste, with little negative impact if good
pairing choices are made. The ability to assess astringency in wine is hampered by confusion
about the differences between bitterness, acidity, and astringency as they are sensed in the
mouth. 2 Secondarily, the perception of astringency may be hampered by sweeteners in wine
or food. Residual sweetness in wine lessens the perception of astringency, 3 while sourness in
wine heightens the perception of astringency. 4
During the wine evaluation process, look for a drying or puckering sensation in your
mouth as an indication of tannin level. Highly tannic wine provides a gripping mouthfeel
and a coarse textural feeling. Tannin can range from barely perceived to mouth-grippingly
rough. Very tannic reds such as Barolo or Cabernet Sauvignon are a major ally with steak
and lamb. The higher fattiness and chewy texture of these meats makes the wine feel more
supple, alluring, and enticingly complex. Many food textures are believed to block the taste
buds and make the impact of tannin less than desirable. Some of these foods, including eggs,
chocolate, and some cheeses, seem to have a mouth-coating effect when consumed with
wine. 5 Although I find bittersweet chocolate and Cabernet Sauvignon to be a pleasant combination,
semisweet and milk chocolate are both too sweet and mouth-coating to create a
good combination with red wine. Most fish dishes provide an example of foods that can
have negative effects with high-tannin wines. Tannic reds with strong wood flavors turn the
taste of most fish metallic and nasty. Successful combinations of red wines with fish are more
likely when choosing reds with lower tannins, such as Pinot Noir, Beaujolais, Dolcetto, or
even Zinfandel. High salt in food has a negative interaction with wine tannins, making the
tannins taste bitter and unpleasant.
MOUTHFEEL WHEEL
Mouthfeel is an important characteristic of wine evaluations. Evaluators have used a
variety of terms and techniques to assess the level of astringency in wine, one of these
methods being the idea of a mouthfeel wheel. 6 For the initial test of the mouthfeel wheel,
samples of fabrics were used to serve as reference anchors for a variety of astringent sensations.
Later research indicates that the original perspective of the mouthfeel wheel was too
complex for even experienced wine judges, as it incorporated multiple characteristics including
surface smoothness, drying sensations, dynamic elements, weight, complexity, and
ripeness. 7
The basic concept of using fabric samples for reference anchors has been supported.
Fabric categories ranged from fine (silk, chamois, and satin) to medium (felt, velvet, emery,
and suede) and coarse (corduroy, sandpaper, and burlap). 8 Following these findings, fabric
Mouthfeel Wheel 155