food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington
food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington
food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington
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56<br />
Chapter 3 Gastronomic Identity<br />
CULTURE<br />
concept is intert<strong>wine</strong>d with history <strong>and</strong> culture. (Further implications of terroir are discussed<br />
later, in the history section.)<br />
AVAs are constantly evolving, <strong>and</strong> approval is based on an explanation of why <strong>and</strong> how<br />
the region is a separate <strong>and</strong> identifiable growing area, based on history, climate, soil, water,<br />
<strong>and</strong> so on. In contrast to appellations developed in European traditions (which regulate<br />
varietals <strong>and</strong> viticulture methods as well as geographic boundaries), American growers can<br />
plant any grape varietals of their choice, with harvests as large as the vines will sustain or as<br />
small as their quality concerns comm<strong>and</strong>. From a <strong>wine</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>food</strong> <strong>pairing</strong> perspective, this<br />
freedom limits the usefulness of U.S. appellations as guides to <strong>wine</strong> characteristics without<br />
additional knowledge about the grower, producer, <strong>and</strong> location. The French, German, Italian,<br />
<strong>and</strong> Spanish systems provide greater confidence in using appellations as a guide to <strong>wine</strong><br />
quality <strong>and</strong> characteristics. A limitation in this is that vintage plays a much larger role in<br />
these Old World locations because of greater reliance on the weather (water, sun, wind) <strong>and</strong><br />
less on planned factors (such as irrigation).<br />
Cultural studies of <strong>food</strong> by sociologists <strong>and</strong> anthropologists have become much more<br />
common over the past century. Researchers have described <strong>food</strong> habits as a sort of customary<br />
behavior that underpins the rituals of a stable society. These authors suggest that norms in<br />
eating patterns both reflect broader structures of the society <strong>and</strong> indicate that ‘‘taste is culturally<br />
shaped <strong>and</strong> socially controlled.’’ 17 In relation to the concept of gastronomic identity,<br />
it can be surmised that <strong>food</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>wine</strong> habits derive from a variety of cultural norms <strong>and</strong><br />
events over time. These include the history of the region, the <strong>food</strong> systems employed, the<br />
amount <strong>and</strong> location of trade, traditions, beliefs, <strong>and</strong> capabilities development. Capabilities<br />
development refers to learned abilities in a location such as farming techniques, <strong>wine</strong> making<br />
techniques, innovative behaviors <strong>and</strong> so on. The following sections discuss these factors in<br />
relation to their impact on <strong>wine</strong>.<br />
HISTORY AND ETHNIC DIVERSITY<br />
The history of <strong>wine</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>food</strong> in any region has developed over time with many twists<br />
<strong>and</strong> turns. 18 Historical events <strong>and</strong> governmental policies have a substantial impact on <strong>wine</strong><br />
<strong>and</strong> <strong>food</strong> products. Taxation structures, inheritance customs, <strong>and</strong> l<strong>and</strong> tenure systems all<br />
affect how much <strong>food</strong> or <strong>wine</strong> grapes a farmer might keep for consumption or to sell at the<br />
market <strong>and</strong> how much would be diverted to the ruling body. 19 In Italy, grapes are grown<br />
virtually everywhere to produce <strong>wine</strong>. This creates possible problems for the government in<br />
terms of proper taxation of the value of the grapes, the <strong>wine</strong>s produced, <strong>and</strong> the distillation<br />
of grappa (a beverage made from the must of grapes left after the pressing process). The<br />
Italian government estimates the amount of grapes grown based on the acreage of vineyards<br />
<strong>and</strong> keeps track of the amount of <strong>wine</strong> produced <strong>and</strong> the weight of the grapes after pressing<br />
to determine more exact figures.<br />
The history of <strong>wine</strong> grape growing <strong>and</strong> <strong>wine</strong>making in North America explains much<br />
of practices used throughout its industry. Canada’s <strong>wine</strong> history dates back more than four<br />
hundred years, with much of the early traditions of <strong>wine</strong> culture brought by immigrants<br />
from Germany <strong>and</strong> Italy; these later became the basis for early commercial <strong>wine</strong> production.<br />
In 1525, the governor of Mexico (Hern<strong>and</strong>o Cortés) ordered the planting of grapes. Fearing<br />
the colony would become self-sufficient in producing its own <strong>wine</strong>, the king of Spain outlawed<br />
further new plantings in Mexico in 1595. This moratorium was enforced for 150 years,<br />
effectively eliminating the growth of commercial <strong>wine</strong> production in Mexico. The Franciscan