food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington
food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington
food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington
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Chapter 13 The Gr<strong>and</strong> Finale: Dessert <strong>and</strong> Dessert Wines<br />
Table 13.1 Frozen Grape Examples<br />
Primary Regions Primary Grapes Typical Producers<br />
Canada—Niagara (over<br />
90% of Canada’s ice<br />
<strong>wine</strong> is produced in<br />
Ontario) <strong>and</strong> Okanagan<br />
Pacific Northwest—<br />
Washington, Oregon, <strong>and</strong><br />
Idaho<br />
Vidal Blanc, Riesling, Gewürztraminer,<br />
Cabernet Franc<br />
Chenin Blanc, Gewürztraminer,<br />
Riesling, Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc,<br />
Pinot Noir<br />
Ontario: Château des Charmes, Henry of Pelham, Kittling Ridge,<br />
Pillitteri, Reif Estates<br />
Okanagan: Gehringer Brothers Estate<br />
Both Ontario <strong>and</strong> Okanagan: Inniskillin, Jackson-Triggs<br />
Oregon: Argyle, King Estate, Ponzi Vineyards<br />
Washington: Chateau Ste. Michelle, Covey Run, Kiona, L’Ecole No.<br />
41, Preston, Terra Blanca<br />
Idaho: Sawtooth Winery<br />
Ohio <strong>and</strong> New York Vidal Blanc, Riesling Ohio: Chalet Debonne, Ferrante, Firel<strong>and</strong>s, Heineman<br />
New York: Hunt Country, Wagner.<br />
Germany (mainly from the<br />
Rhine <strong>and</strong> Mosel Valleys)<br />
<strong>wine</strong> that can be served with desserts. Sparkling <strong>wine</strong>s were discussed in depth in Chapter<br />
6 <strong>and</strong> therefore will not be covered in any great detail in the dessert <strong>wine</strong> section of this<br />
chapter. They are included where appropriate in the sections on desserts <strong>and</strong> <strong>wine</strong> <strong>pairing</strong>.<br />
There is a wide range of dessert <strong>wine</strong>s produced in regions all over the globe. The<br />
discussion here only scratches the surface of this <strong>wine</strong> category, but it provides a good<br />
framework for categorizing dessert <strong>wine</strong>s regardless of where they are produced. General<br />
categories include frozen-grape <strong>wine</strong>s, late-harvest <strong>wine</strong>s, dried-grape <strong>wine</strong>s, <strong>and</strong> fortified<br />
<strong>wine</strong>s. 1 However, you will notice that dessert <strong>wine</strong>s are also created by combining two or<br />
more of these techniques.<br />
Frozen-Grape Wines As discussed in the Aperitif, the traditional frozen-grape<br />
<strong>wine</strong> is created by leaving the grapes on the vine until they are frozen, then picking <strong>and</strong><br />
pressing them while still frozen. Because the grapes have been left on the vine for a longer<br />
period (reducing the water content <strong>and</strong> increasing the sugar content) <strong>and</strong> a lot of the water<br />
is left behind as ice when they are pressed, the remaining juice is exceptionally sweet, with<br />
concentrated flavors.<br />
Classic examples of <strong>wine</strong>s made using this frozen process are German Eiswein <strong>and</strong><br />
Canadian ice <strong>wine</strong>. Ice <strong>wine</strong> <strong>and</strong> other frozen <strong>wine</strong>s are also produced in the United States<br />
(mainly in northern areas such as Washington, Idaho, Ohio, <strong>and</strong> New York) <strong>and</strong> in the<br />
colder locations of New Zeal<strong>and</strong>. In Germany, Canada <strong>and</strong> Austria, the grapes are required<br />
to be frozen naturally; 2 Some ice <strong>wine</strong> producers in other regions, such as Oregon, California,<br />
<strong>and</strong> warmer areas of New Zeal<strong>and</strong>, create ice <strong>wine</strong>s by placing grapes in the freezer<br />
prior to pressing. This process, referred to as cryoextraction (mechanical freezing), is more<br />
reliable <strong>and</strong> less expensive, but it is considered ‘‘cheating’’ by ice <strong>wine</strong> purists <strong>and</strong> generally<br />
results in <strong>wine</strong>s of a lower quality. Frozen <strong>wine</strong>s produced in this manner cannot be labeled<br />
as ice <strong>wine</strong>; rather, they are labeled using a variety of terms such as iced <strong>wine</strong>, vino gelato,<br />
cryo-cluster, frostbite, <strong>and</strong> vin de glacière.<br />
Table 13.1 provides a list of typical regions that produce frozen-grape <strong>wine</strong>s. The<br />
st<strong>and</strong>ard grape typically used for frozen-grape <strong>wine</strong>s varies by region. The classic grape is<br />
Riesling, Huxelrebe Helenenkloster, Selbach-Oster<br />
Austria Bouvier, Blaufränkisch (also known<br />
as Lemberger), Gewürztraminer,<br />
Grüner-Veltliner<br />
New Zeal<strong>and</strong> Riesling, Chardonnay, Sauvignon<br />
Blanc<br />
Heiss Winery, Gsellmann <strong>and</strong> Gsellmann Winery<br />
Brightwater Vineyards, Mission Estate, Nobilo, Selaks