food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington

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Chapter 8 Fattiness, Cooking Method, Protein, and Body
Table 8.1 Ascending Levels of Body in Proteins and Cooking Methods
Protein
such as smoothness, richness, and moistness. The use of milk and cream as references for
wine body in the previous chapter provide a good example of how levels of fat affect the
tactile sensation experienced in the mouth.
Generally, a richer, fatter dish will require a richer, more full-bodied wine to complement
it. Wine elements can be used to cut through the food fattiness levels. A classic match
is lamb or beef with young Cabernet Sauvignon; the fat in the meat has a natural affinity
for the higher tannins present in the wine, mellowing them.
While an in-depth discussion of cheeses is provided in Chapter 12, it is important to
note that fattiness levels vary substantially due to cheese type. Fresh cheeses (ricotta or fresh
goat cheeses) and aged hard cheeses (Parmigiano Reggiano, Asiago) have a much lower fat
content than high-fat cheeses such as Brie and Brillat-Savarin. Lower-fat cheeses generally
match better with light wines, and fattier cheeses are a better match with stronger wines.
High acidity in wine can also be effective in cutting the fat in foods with higher fat
content. As discussed in Chapter 5, acidity in wine generally works best with vegetable-based
fats rather than animal-based ones. For the creamy sauces commonly served with fish, an
unoaked Chardonnay is preferred to an oaky Chardonnay. The unoaked version will retain
a higher level of acidity, and the closer body match will pair better with this dairy-based
sauce.
Matching acidity in wine with food fattiness is an example of an exception to the rule
of similar body styles in food and wine. When matched with fatty foods, white wines need
to be crisp and intensely flavored, but when paired with meaty items, white wines should
have an element of sweetness to them (such as German Spätlese or Auslese).
COOKING METHOD AND
PROTEIN INTERACTIONS
While an important texture element is the level of fat present in the protein portion
of the finished dish, the cooking method also has significant effects on the texture of prepared
food items. For example, poaching or steaming maintains a light texture, while frying or
grilling provides additional texture. Table 8.1 provides examples of proteins and cooking
methods in ascending order based on the level of body they provide to finished dishes. The
cooking method used and the level of fat in the protein interact to modify the overall body
of the protein in its finished form.
Using the ascending levels of cooking method styles in Table 8.1 will assist in ranking
food items based on cooking method, protein, and final texture. Body can range from very
Moist Cooking
Method
Anticipated
Body Levels Protein
Dry Cooking
Method
Anticipated
Body Levels
White fish Poached, steamed Very light Very light
Chicken Poached, steamed Light White fish Grilled Light
Veal Stewed, braised Light to
moderate
Chicken Grilled, pan-seared Light to
moderate
Game birds Braised Moderate Veal Pan-fried, grilled, fried Moderate
Pork Stewed, braised Moderate to full Game birds Roasted Moderate to full
Beef Stewed Full Pork Roasted, grilled Full
Lamb Stewed, braised Robust Beef Roasted, grilled Robust
Venison, elk Stewed, braised Powerful Lamb Roasted, grilled Powerful
Very powerful Venison, elk Grilled, blackened Very powerful