food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington

not a dominant characteristic in wine, and it is not included as a primary wine component. 6
When bitterness is present in wine, it can provide a pleasant additional layer of excitement
(as can bitterness in food), but high levels of bitterness are not desirable in wine, and they
are not a good thing in food-and-wine pairing. Unlike other matched components such as
sweetness or acidity, matching a bitter food with a bitter wine just creates an intense bitter
taste.
Bitterness in food magnifies the sensations of tannin in wine. Sweetness (residual sugar)
in wine reduces the impact of food bitterness.
SPARKLING WINE AND PAIRING
Sparkling wine made in France outside of the Champagne region is labeled vin mousseux.
Sparkling wines are called spumante in Italy, Sekt in Germany, cava in Spain, and cap classique
in South Africa. 7 The effervescence in Champagne and other sparkling wines is often called
bubbles, stars, or sparklers.
Sparkling wine can be created using several methods. The most common methods use
two fermentations, with the second fermentation trapping dissolved carbon dioxide gas in
the wine. The method used can substantially impact the sensory and quality characteristics
of the wine (as well as the price of the wine). The traditional Champagne method (méthode
champenoise) is considered by most to create the highest-quality sparkling wines.
The level of effervescence is defined by the amount of bubbles present in a wine
product. Wine evaluators assess effervescence in four areas: the amount of bubbles (the
number of bubbles in a bottle of good sparkling wine is estimated to be about 49 million), 8
their size (smaller bubbles provide evidence of skilled technique in the traditional Champagne
method), their consistency (consistency in bubble size and intensity), and how long
they last (bubbles should not dissipate quickly after the bottle is opened or the wine is
poured). All of these areas are an indication of quality in a sparkling wine.
For the purpose of food-and-wine pairing, there are a number of criteria to consider
when pairing food with sparkling wine. Sparkling wines come in a variety of body styles,
acidity levels, sweetness levels, and effervescence levels.
Body style in sparkling wine is determined by the producer. Within the Champagne
region, body styles vary from light to full-bodied. As with other wines, body style is determined
by the type of grapes used, fermentation method, and growing region. Sparkling wines
in the Champagne region are made from one of three types of grapes: Chardonnay, Pinot
Noir, and Meunier. Most American producers of quality sparkling wines adhere to this list,
but the varietals used vary by climate zone. Table 6.1 provides a list of varietals used by the
majority of quality sparkling wine producers in cool, moderate, and warm climates.
Body The body style is determined by the producer and is dependent on the grapes used,
fermentation, aging, and climate. The term blanc de blancs is used to designate white wine
made only from white grapes, traditionally Chardonnay. The term blanc de noirs refers to
white wine made only from black (red) grapes, traditionally Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir adds
depth, complexity, and fullness to the sparkling wine. Chardonnay grapes grown in a cool
climate such as Champagne allows the grapes to stay on the vine for a longer period. Cooler
climates allow Chardonnay grapes to retain a desirable level of acidity, needed to achieve
greater complexity during the aging process. 9
Table 6.2 provides specific examples of sparkling wines produced in the Champagne
region, grouped by increasing body. This list points out the influence of the house style on
body even when the sparkling wines come from the same growing region.
Sparklers are usually made as a white or rosé wine. Rosé sparkling wines are less
common than whites and have a fuller body style on average. Rosé sparkling wine can stand
Sparkling Wine and Pairing 133