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Chapter 3 Gastronomic Identity
Champagne by Dom Pérignon and others during the seventeenth century. 22 Another example
is the more recent innovation of temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks for wine storage
and fermentation. These relatively new tanks minimize the negative impact of oxidation
(contact with air) and maintain a constant cool temperature during the fermentation process,
which is particularly important for the production of white wines. 23
Trial and error in viticulture and winemaking have left a lasting impression on both
Old World and New World products. Europeans had more than eleven hundred years of
winemaking experience prior to settling the New World. Despite stutters over the last three
hundred years, the absence of rules, regulations, and traditions has allowed the New World
regions to pioneer new technologies, experiment with different varietals, and rebound into
a thriving industry over the past century.
While the Old World methods were used as original models for New World wine
production, it can be argued that the series of failures and renaissances in the New World
provided an opportunity to continuously update viticulture practices, as well as pioneer and
harness new winemaking technology. This process of adaptation and trial and error may be
the most significant factor in developing the forward-thinking New World wine industry.
What does all this mean for wine and food pairing decisions? First, gastronomic identity
is also determined by the capabilities of those in the region and local area. Do local
producers have the capability to produce quality wine and food products? Do they have the
innovative capacity to differentiate themselves (or the region) from the competition? Capabilities
of this sort can be limited to a firm, can be locally based, or may become regional.
Locally based capabilities allow the development of new innovations that ultimately impact
identifiable gastronomic products and services.
GASTRONOMIC IDENTITY
From the above discussion, it should be apparent that a variety of factors affect the wine,
food, and gastronomic identity of a region. While this identity is constantly evolving, the
identification of characteristics can provide the knowledgeable observer with tools to estimate
the impact of these factors on general trends in prevailing flavors, textures, and component
characteristics. Food trends are derived through a continuous interaction and evolution of
fashion, traditions, culture, and climate, and wine trends are derived in a similar fashion.
Gastronomic traditions are created through a fusion of ingredients and techniques as a result
of the marrying of diverse cultures, ethnic influences, and history. Gastronomic traditions
are restricted through limitations on product availability, know-how, trade, and climate. To
tie the idea of gastronomic identity to regional grape growing and wine production, the
following sections provide a brief overview of the impact of Old World and New World
traditions and climate zones on classic (and not-so-classic) marriages in wine and food.
OLD WORLD AND NEW WORLD
While the cool/moderate/warm climate zone concept forms a continuum of wine style
range, the Old World/New World perspective suggests a dichotomy between the two generalized
regions of the wine and food world. The Old World includes the traditional winegrowing
regions of Europe: France, Italy, Spain, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Austria,
Bulgaria and Switzerland. The New World includes the United States, Australia, Argentina,
Canada, Chile, New Zealand, and South Africa. As a broad brushstoke, Old World wines
are described as subtler in style, more refined, and understated. New World wines are described
as having a bolder style and being more intense, lush, and opulent. There are a