food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington

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Maturity, Micro-Oxygenation, and Other Factors 159 MATURITY, MICRO-OXYGENATION, AND OTHER FACTORS Many wine drinkers believe that aging or cellaring wine is always preferable to drinking a bottle that was just purchased from a local wine shop. This is certainly not the case. Champagne and other sparkling wines are ready for consumption when released and do not improve with age. Port improves with age only if it is vintage Port. Most New World wines are formulated to be ready to consume immediately upon their release (though this is not to say that wines from higher-quality producers will not benefit from additional aging). So why be concerned with aging of wine? The determination of any advantages to aging wine has to do with personal preferences in most white wines and the impact on wine texture and flavor in some red wines. While quality Riesling and Chardonnay can be cellared for more than ten years, most whites shouldn’t be aged for more than five to seven years (many even less). Aging of white wine has an impact on color and flavor. Young wines are pale and even green-tinged in color and are generally fruity in nature. Aged whites become darker in color (in many cases changing from yellow to gold to dark amber) and lose their fresh fruit character, taking on different flavors. This transition can be thought of similarly to the process of fresh fruit becoming aged and dried. For instance, if you cut open a fresh apple, it has a fresh, crisp apple taste and smell. If you leave it exposed to the air, it will darken in color and lose some of its original freshness and crispness. If you were to dry the apple, while its flavor, color, and taste would be different from the fresh apple, it would still be pleasurable, although in a quite different form. The same is true for aged wine. Red wines change in color and flavor as well but also may change in terms of the amount of astringency. Color in red wine may change from bright red to brick red to brown as it ages. Color intensity also tends to decrease in red wine as it ages. Flavors may change from red or dark fruits to distinct flavors such as tobacco or leather. In many cases, the original wine varietal character is replaced with a more subtle and complex bouquet. One of the best-understood parts of the aging process is the smoothing of the tannins that are originally present. Most premium red wines will improve in flavor, bouquet, and smoothness as they age. Cabernet Sauvignon from premium vineyards will reach optimal drinkability after about ten years of proper handling and aging. Red wines that can be aged for substantial periods of time owe this ability to the tannins added during the winemaking process. Red wines with lower levels of tannin (such as Zinfandel and Pinot Noir) can age much like Cabernet but generally begin declining at an earlier stage. Thus, red wine’s maturity can have a substantial impact on the forcefulness of its texture and ultimately impact pairing decisions. For instance, while a Cabernet will generally be more tannic than many other reds, a consideration of its aging is important when matching with foods to ensure a proper balance of textures. It would be a crime to overshadow a finely aged bottle of Cabernet with a food dish that is much too rich and powerful. There seems to be two main advantages to aging wine. The first is the smoothing characteristics of aged, quality red wines. Second is the sense of exclusivity involved in drinking old wines. Very old wines are appealing to consumers more because of their historical appeal than because of gastronomic factors. 17 Clearly, the preferences of the consumer have a major impact on the value of wine aging. Light, high temperatures, and air are the key enemies when aging wine. Few of us have the ability to create a light-, humidity-, and temperature-controlled cellar. If you decide to create a cellar (whether as a restaurant operator or in your home), it is important to consider whether the wines will be cellared for the short term, intermediate term, or long term. As pointed out above, not all wines benefit from aging, and only wines of higher quality and complexity will live longer and benefit from being cellared. There are several factors that impact a wine’s ability to develop in the bottle and maintain a long life in the
160 Chapter 7 Wine Texture Characteristics: Tannin, Oak, and Body Table 7.3 Wine Examples with Aging Potential Cellaring Time White Wines Red Wines Short-term Aging (1 to 5 years) Intermediate Aging (5 to 10 years) Long-term Aging (more than 10 years) Burgundy, Chablis, Chardonnay, Gavi, Gewurztraminer, Graves, Pinot Grigio, Pouilly-Fumé, Riesling (dry and sweet), Rioja, Sancerre, Sauvignon Blanc Burgundy, Chablis, Chardonnay, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gewurztraminer, Graves, Hermitage, Pouilly-Fumé, Riesling (dry and sweet), Rioja Barsac, Burgundy, Chablis, Chardonnay, Châteauneuf-du- Pape, Riesling, Sauternes Barbera, Beaujolais, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cahors, Chianti, Chianti Classico, Crozes-Hermitage, Dolcetto, Lemberger, Malbec, Merlot, Nebbiolo, Pinot Noir, Rioja, Syrah, Zinfandel Barolo, Barbaresco, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cahors, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Chianti, Chianti Classico, Côte Rôtie, Hermitage, Malbec, Merlot, Nebbiolo, Pinot Noir, Rioja, Syrah, Zinfandel Amarone, Barolo, Barbaresco, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Cabernet Sauvignon, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Chianti Classico, Côte Rôtie, Hermitage, Merlot, Nebbiolo, Pinot Noir, Rioja Reserva, Syrah, Zinfandel cellar. Alcohol, tannin, acid, grape varietal, and methods of vinification all impact a wine’s aging potential. Short-term cellaring generally involves a period of one to five years. These are wines that can be consumed at any time during this period with some interesting changes over time. Intermediate-term cellaring ranges from five to ten years. Wines that fall into this category will provide rewards for moderate aging and will become more subtle and refined, developing a bouquet. Some wines need long aging to mature to a point where their depth of character is exposed. These are wines that will survive an aging process of more that ten years in a cellar with substantial smoothing of texture and change of character. The wines in this group should be from the best vintages and producers. Table 7.3 provides some suggested types of white and red wines that may benefit from each level of cellaring. 18 A recent trend in both New and Old World wines is to use a modern technology known as micro-oxygenation to obtain softer tannins and easier drinking in young wines. In this process, oxygen is added to wine in two phases. The first is during the period lasting from the end of the primary alcohol fermentation until the start of the malolactic fermentation. This first stage is called polymerization and works to condense dry tannins, resulting in wine color stabilization and the elimination of harsh wine tastes. The second addition period follows the malolactic fermentation phase. This stage is called harmonization and creates a continuous softening of the tannins; it can also solve problems involving unpleasant odors. A main feature of this process is its ability to reduce the tannin levels in young red wines to levels of wines with greater maturity. A further method of lowering tannin levels in younger wines is the practice of early harvest in warmer climates. Combining this process with the micro-oxygenation process creates a smoother, less harsh wine that retains deep and stable color typical of the varietals.
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FOOD AND WINE PAIRING A SENSORY EXP
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FOOD AND WINE PAIRING A SENSORY EXP
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PREFACE xi ACKNOWLEDGMENTS xiii CON
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Summary 111 Exercises 112 CHAPTER 6
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CHAPTER 13: THE GRAND FINALE: DESSE
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xii Preface PEDAGOGICAL FEATURES TH
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PART A MASTERING THE ART AND SCIENC
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CHAPTER 1 THE WINE AND FOOD PYRAMID
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Aperitif/The Italian Wine and Food
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Aperitif/The Italian Wine and Food
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Food and Wine Pairing Mechanics: Ma
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OVERVIEW OF BOOK METHODS Wine and f
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Wine Sensory Pyramid The Wine Senso
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Classic Italian Wine and Food Examp
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The Pinot Bianco tames the asparagu
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20 Chapter 2 Taste Basics and the B
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CHAPTER 3 GASTRONOMIC IDENTITY: THE
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on prevailing components, textures,
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Aperitif/How Should Menus and Wine
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Wine: The Impact of Geography and C
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Table 3.1 Approximate Climate Zones
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Wine: The Impact of Geography and C
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Trial and Error, Innovations, and C
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number of reasons why these general
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tasting panel members would be Fren
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NOTES 1. B. Santich, ‘‘The Stud
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66 Chapter 4 Gastronomic Identity I
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PART B THE FOUNDATION: FOOD AND WIN
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at all. Dryness and sweetness for t
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CHAPTER 5 THE IMPACT OF SWEETNESS A
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THE IMPACT OF SWEETNESS LEVELS IN W
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Table 5.1 Wine Sweetness Level Desc
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with a fruit/sweet sauce, choose a
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Page 130 and 131: STEPS Exercise 5.1 113 1. Buy the w
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Page 204 and 205: PART D FLAVORS: ARCHITECTURAL ELEME
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210 Chapter 10 Flavor Intensity and
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The previous chapters have presente
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CHAPTER 11 MENU PLANNING: HORIZONTA
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The Food of the Pacific Northwest 2
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Basic Wine Sequencing Recommendatio
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Basic Wine Sequencing Recommendatio
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Soup Course This menu item incorpor
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Pacific Northwest Menu 243 Food Ite
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This finished dish is full-bodied,
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While aged cheddar complements just
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Wine and Food Pairing Instrument 24
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C O M P O N E N T S T E X T U R E F
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A Profiling Approach to Match Level
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Food Item:_________________________
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Smoked Corn & Chicken Pasta Penne p
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Components Similarity Contrast Scor
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C O M P O N E N T S T E X T U R E F
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Flavor Similarity Contrast Score Lo
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STEPS Table 11.2 Wines, Food Items,
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Food Item: Grilled Sirloin Yield: 6
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270 Chapter 12 Wine and Cheese: A N
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282 STEPS Chapter 12 Wine and Chees
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288 Chapter 13 The Grand Finale: De
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304 STEPS Chapter 13 The Grand Fina
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308 Chapter 14 The Customer Experie
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314 Glossary Consistency. Refers to
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316 Glossary percent fat content an
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318 Index Botrytis cinerea 291-292
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320 Index Grassiness 38 213 Graves
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322 Index Spice(s) 190, 192, 194, 1
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