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food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington

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sensual, <strong>and</strong> captivating. Floc is produced using a combination of fresh grape juice <strong>and</strong> strong<br />

young Armagnac. It can be made with red or white grapes <strong>and</strong> has appealing young <strong>and</strong><br />

fruity flavors.<br />

The family of fortified <strong>wine</strong>s can either be very expensive or provide some of the best<br />

values in the <strong>wine</strong> market. They range widely in color, intensity, flavor, <strong>and</strong> sweetness levels.<br />

Fortified dessert <strong>wine</strong>s that are sweet, strongly flavored, <strong>and</strong> high in alcohol are intended to<br />

be served in smaller portions than table <strong>wine</strong>s for sipping after the meal or with cheeses <strong>and</strong><br />

desserts. Many higher-alcohol fortified <strong>wine</strong>s such as Ruby Port, Tawny Port, Floc, <strong>and</strong><br />

Oloroso <strong>and</strong> Cream Sherries can be kept for several days or even weeks without deterioration.<br />

Fino Sherries, Vintage Ports, <strong>and</strong> Muscats are more delicate <strong>and</strong> should be consumed<br />

shortly after opening to minimize any loss in quality.<br />

Floc, Olorosos, Cream Sherries, Marsala, Madeira, <strong>and</strong> Ports are generally served at<br />

a cool room temperature. Fino Sherries <strong>and</strong> fortified Muscats are served chilled. Fortified<br />

<strong>wine</strong>s are often served in small cordial glasses, but during the ceremony of contemplative<br />

sipping, they are best served in small <strong>wine</strong> or regular <strong>wine</strong>glasses so their aromas can be<br />

appreciated.<br />

DESSERT SELECTION AND WINE PAIRING<br />

Individual preferences for sweets vary from person to person <strong>and</strong> among cultures. For<br />

example, I have a sweet tooth <strong>and</strong> don’t see a problem serving sweet desserts <strong>and</strong> sweet<br />

dessert <strong>wine</strong>s together. However, in planning a dessert course, you must use care to ensure<br />

that the majority of your guests enjoy the combination you have selected.<br />

Many sweet <strong>food</strong>s can be as high as one-fourth sugar, whereas dessert <strong>wine</strong>s rarely<br />

have more than 10–15 percent sugar content. This situation requires that care be taken to<br />

avoid a mismatch in sugar content—remember the rule of thumb that <strong>food</strong>s are better<br />

matched with <strong>wine</strong>s when <strong>food</strong> sweetness level is less than or equal to <strong>wine</strong> sweetness level.<br />

I vividly remember a case where I did not follow this rule <strong>and</strong> paid the price. I had a bottle<br />

of Muscat Cannelli (a moderately sweet <strong>wine</strong>) <strong>and</strong> served it with ice cream <strong>and</strong> a chocolate<br />

dessert. It was a disaster—the dessert was way too sweet <strong>and</strong> rich for the <strong>wine</strong> <strong>and</strong> ended<br />

up making the <strong>wine</strong> taste thin, bitter, <strong>and</strong> acidic.<br />

Fruit-based <strong>and</strong> moderately sweet desserts are the best matches for the spectrum of<br />

dessert <strong>wine</strong>s. The following sections classify desserts into five categories <strong>and</strong> provide suggestions<br />

for dessert <strong>wine</strong>s to try within each category. Of course, many other options are<br />

possible, <strong>and</strong> you are encouraged to experiment with your favorite desserts <strong>and</strong> <strong>wine</strong>s.<br />

DESSERT CATEGORIES<br />

Just as categorizing dessert <strong>wine</strong>s <strong>and</strong> cheeses is not a straightforward task, categorizing<br />

desserts is not totally straightforward either. As you are aware, desserts are frequently a<br />

combination of items—fruits, custard, chocolate, <strong>and</strong> nuts could easily be part of one dessert.<br />

The point of separating them into categories is to determine likely matches with individual<br />

elements. When multiple dessert elements (fruit, custard, chocolate, etc.) are combined,<br />

layers of components, texture, <strong>and</strong> flavors are created for a wide variety of similar <strong>and</strong><br />

contrasting elements. This process provides some basic rules to follow in the dessert <strong>and</strong><br />

dessert <strong>wine</strong> <strong>pairing</strong> process, which can be exp<strong>and</strong>ed to multiple dessert element situations.<br />

As with the other <strong>pairing</strong>s throughout this text, there are a few tools at your disposal.<br />

First is the general rule that the <strong>wine</strong> should be as sweet as or sweeter than the dessert.<br />

Second, excessive <strong>food</strong> elements such as bitterness, sweetness, acidity, <strong>and</strong> richness may<br />

Dessert Categories 295

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