food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington

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Chapter 7 Wine Texture Characteristics: Tannin, Oak, and Body
Generally, a definition of body refers to the consistency or viscosity of wine, assessed
through tactile sensations in the mouth. It provides an impression of weight, size, and volume
in the mouth. 14 Wine evaluators use terms such as substance or plenty of reserve or power to
describe a full-bodied wine. 15 A typical analogy to describe various levels of body in wine is
to use a spectrum of milks and creams. These range from skim milk (light-bodied), whole
milk (medium-bodied), half-and-half (full-bodied), and whipping cream (very full-bodied). 16
One method to emphasize the differences between a full-bodied wine and a thin wine
is to select a full-bodied wine (such as a good Cabernet Sauvignon or even an oaked Chardonnay)
and create two samples: one that is the normal wine right out of the bottle and one
that has been diluted with 10 percent water. This exercise will reinforce in a hurry what is
meant by full-bodied wine.
Ranking wine on a perceived feeling of body can range from thin to robust. Value
bands and descriptions are provided in Table 7.2 to guide you in this process. Also included
are milk and cream samples to serve as references. Wine varietals that usually fall within
these value bands are included as well. The wine examples provide good diversity in body
levels, but as with other elements in wine, overall body can vary within the same wine varietal
and may have slightly higher or lower values of body than those indicated in Table 7.2.
Experts on wine and food pairing do not agree about the importance of matching the
body style of wine and food. Some authors suggest that it is the most important element to
match, while others indicate it is just one of many factors that may impact good wine and
food pairing. Given that wine and food have a natural affinity with each other, wine and
food matching is not a win-or-lose proposition but instead is a win-or-synergize proposition.
I believe that matching body style in wine and food is an important factor for creating great
matches and, ultimately, transforming the gastronomic experience from a refreshing one to
a memorable one. My belief is that texture elements play a secondary role only to components
in their importance in creating a synergistic relationship with food. It is common sense
to match lighter wines with lighter foods and robust wines with robust foods. When body
styles are contrasted (light to rich or rich to light), the lighter member of this equation will
generally serve as only a supporting actor on the gastronomic stage and doesn’t create the
ultimate goal of a synergistic wine and food match.
Table 7.2 Levels of Overall Body in Wine
Value Bands Descriptions
0
1
2
2
3
4
4
5
6
6
7
8
8
9
10
Thin. Lacking in body—devoid of tannin, low in alcohol and, without
oak. Resembles a watery consistency. Skim milk; some Riesling, Chenin
Blanc, Gavi, Fendant, some sparkling wines.
Light. Agreeably light in body with relatively low tannin, alcohol, and
oak. 1% or 2% milk; Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer,
unoaked Chardonnay, Beaujolais Nouveau.
Moderate. Body that is identifiable at an intermediate level with
sufficient amounts of tannin, alcohol, and / or oak. Whole milk; Pinot
Noir, oaked Chardonnay, unoaked Barbera.
Full. Body in which elements of tannin, alcohol, or oak are unmistakably
identified and are significantly emphasized. A feeling of big, and bold
body and structure. Half-and-half; Cabernet Franc, Zinfandel, Syrah,
Merlot, oaked Chianti.
Heavy. A very robust and rich body with high tannin, high alcohol,
heavy oak and an unmistakable feeling of strong, heavy texture.
Whipping cream; some Cabernet Sauvignon, Barolo, Port, late-harvest
Zinfandel, Cabernet Franc ice wine.