food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington

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Chapter 9 The Impact of Spice
Table 9.2 Evaluating Spiciness in Food and Wine
Perceived
Ratings
Range Description of Perception Level Used in Rating Food/Wine
0
1
2
2
3
4
4
5
6
6
7
8
8
9
10
Imperceptible (no spice): If the particular sensation is not detectable or if this
sensation fades almost immediately. No perception or barely perceptible levels.
Little perception (weak spice): A taste-smell sensation in which one succeeds in
identifying or perceiving it in a recognizable way, but the stimulus is not well defined.
The level of perception is still low.
Sufficiently Perceived (moderately spicy): A taste-smell sensation in which one
succeeds in identifying it and perceiving it at a sufficient level. This score should not
be based on a hedonic (good or bad) evaluation or appraisal of the taste sensation
but simply a quantitative appraisal. There is an intermediate level of perception.
Abundant perception (intense spice): A taste-smell sensation in which one can clearly
identify and perceive in a very distinct way. The taste-smell sensation is at an
emphasized level.
Highly perceived (powerful spice): A taste-smell sensation that can be unmistakably
identified. One can identify a particular food or clearly characterize a complex
preparation. High perceptibility with a lot of emphasis.
IMPACT ON PAIRING POSSIBILITIES
Rule #8: Food spiciness should be equal to wine spiciness.
Rule #9: Spicy food should be paired with off-dry, acidic white wines.
A wine’s flavors can complement a food’s spicy character or provide a contrast to it
with fruity, earthy, oaky, or herbal layers. In either case, take into account the richness and
acidity of the food and wine as well. Some pairing experts suggest that spice matches best
with white wines. 12 Others suggest that spicy foods should be paired with fruity, young, lowtannin
reds or whites with moderate alcohol, some sweetness, and light acidity. What these
suggestions have in common is the idea that in many cases hot spicy foods are best paired
with a wine that provides a refreshing reprieve to prepare the palate for the next bite. Fullbodied,
high-alcohol reds create a sensation of additional heat on the palate rather than a
refreshing change. Hot and spicy foods accentuate obvious oak flavors, make dry reds taste
astringent, and reduce our perception of sweetness in any wine accompanying them. Therefore,
wines with no or light oak and plenty of ripe, juicy fruit flavor are suggested to accompany
most hot and spicy foods. 13
Ground pepper and other savory spices can obscure many of the nuances and complexities
of an old, high-quality, and complex wine; such wines should be paired with simple
but high-quality foods prepared to perfection. But these spices can interact with simple, light
wine to bring it alive and to a higher level of enjoyment. Savory spices can provide a pleasant
match when the spice levels are not over the top. If we consider Old World examples of
wine and food matches, we can see that traditional foods in places such as France and Italy
are not overly spicy—the food is well seasoned but matches in intensity levels with the wines
of the region. Spicy characteristics that work in these regions are things such as garlic, herbs,
and moderate levels of savory spices (mustard, pepper, horseradish, etc.).
Because New World wines are bigger, bolder, and more fruit-forward, foods from these
regions are also bolder and more powerful. Grilled foods with Zinfandel from California,