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food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington

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Basic Wine Sequencing Recommendations 239<br />

A basic vertical <strong>pairing</strong> rule of thumb is that <strong>wine</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>food</strong> pairs should increase in<br />

intensity with each successive course. In addition, several other suggestions are centered on<br />

fundamental rules related to our <strong>sensory</strong> impression of <strong>wine</strong> taste, texture, <strong>and</strong> flavor.<br />

1. Light-bodied <strong>wine</strong> before medium-bodied <strong>wine</strong> before full-bodied <strong>wine</strong>. This rule is<br />

based on the fact that lighter-bodied <strong>wine</strong>s tasted after fuller-bodied ones have a<br />

tendency to be perceived as thin <strong>and</strong> weak. Therefore, follow this rule whenever<br />

possible. If this is not possible, try to maximize the time between the fullerbodied<br />

<strong>wine</strong> <strong>and</strong> the lighter one by serving some sort of palate cleanser between<br />

them. A sorbet is a classic example, but a green salad or sparkling <strong>wine</strong> would<br />

also cleanse the palate.<br />

2. Dry <strong>wine</strong>s before sweet <strong>wine</strong>s. This ordering suggestion is similar to the ordering<br />

of savory items before sweet <strong>food</strong> items such as dessert. Dry <strong>wine</strong>s do not leave<br />

a lingering taste of sweetness in your mouth. Sweet <strong>wine</strong>s <strong>and</strong> particularly fortified<br />

<strong>wine</strong>s can deaden the palate. While this rule serves as a general guideline,<br />

there are many exceptions to it. Many times you will want to serve an off-dry<br />

table or sparkling <strong>wine</strong> as an aperitif. You could serve a Gewürztraminer or offdry<br />

Riesling with an appetizer or sea<strong>food</strong> course—or even the classic Sauternes<br />

with foie gras.<br />

3. Lower-alcohol <strong>wine</strong>s before higher-alcohol <strong>wine</strong>s. As alcohol is an<br />

indicator of body, this ordering suggestion follows the same<br />

idea of lighter-bodied <strong>wine</strong>s before fuller-bodied ones. Most<br />

table <strong>wine</strong>s are between 10 <strong>and</strong> 14 percent alcohol, but alcohol<br />

content may become an issue if you are serving a<br />

<strong>wine</strong> that is significantly lower in alcohol (7–8 percent) or<br />

higher (greater than 14 percent).<br />

4. Lower-quality <strong>wine</strong>s before higher-quality <strong>wine</strong>s. It st<strong>and</strong>s to<br />

reason that <strong>wine</strong>s of a lower quality taste less impressive after<br />

those of higher quality. This can also be an issue when<br />

serving young versus mature <strong>wine</strong>s. Younger <strong>wine</strong>s usually<br />

lack complexity <strong>and</strong> nuance. Therefore, if you plan to<br />

splurge on a more expensive bottle or serve a mature one<br />

that you have been cellaring for some time <strong>and</strong> it will be<br />

part of a multicourse meal, it makes sense to choose one<br />

that will be served later rather than earlier in the meal as a<br />

rule. Many times, the highest-quality <strong>wine</strong> is served with the<br />

main course, but it can also be appropriate to serve the<br />

most dramatic <strong>wine</strong> with the cheese course or dessert. Of<br />

course, you should be careful not to serve it too late, when<br />

the diners may have succumbed to <strong>sensory</strong> fatigue.<br />

5. Low-tannin <strong>wine</strong>s before high-tannin <strong>wine</strong>s. This follows the<br />

normal progression that <strong>wine</strong>s <strong>and</strong> <strong>food</strong>s are served in order<br />

of intensity from light to full. The general rule is to serve<br />

white <strong>wine</strong>s before red <strong>wine</strong>s with some exceptions such as a light red (e.g.,<br />

Beaujolais-Villages) <strong>and</strong> an oaky Chardonnay. In this case, the oak adds body<br />

<strong>and</strong> tannin to the Chardonnay <strong>and</strong> it may be appropriate to serve it after a light<br />

red <strong>wine</strong>. A <strong>food</strong> exception is the cheese course; whites usually go best with the<br />

majority of cheeses, but the cheese course is served after the main course <strong>and</strong><br />

typically with a full-bodied red <strong>wine</strong>. Of course, this basic guideline may sometimes<br />

contradict the previous one. As quality red <strong>wine</strong>s age, the inherent tannins<br />

mellow, creating a smoother but more complex sensation. In a situation where<br />

you might serve two reds (one well-aged <strong>and</strong> one still young), I would generally<br />

A more traditional Pacific<br />

Northwest dish featuring<br />

salmon, asparagus, <strong>and</strong> edible<br />

flowers.

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