food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington

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Chapter 3 Gastronomic Identity
The concept of climate zones based on heat summation units can be a defining characteristic
of wine styles. When professional wine tasters evaluate wines as part of a blind
tasting, one of the first ways that they try to identify and differentiate the wines is according
to whether the flavors and style are characteristic of cool climates or warm climates. For
instance, Chardonnay is a very adaptable grape variety that grows well in a wide range of
climates. So if a clear separation is identifiable on the basis of climate factors, it can become
easier to identify the characteristics of a wine and, in the case of wine and food pairing,
predict better wine and food matches.
The climate map concept is also a valuable tool for restaurant servers, allowing them
to quickly determine the general style of a wine by looking at the label or wine list description
and identifying its geographic location. A good way to assist in this determination is to
organize wines on the wine list by climatic characteristics rather than by country or by
domestic/foreign categories.
There are a few caveats with this approach to characterizing wines. Within a country,
region, and even subregion, it can be difficult to generalize completely. Many grape-growing
regions are very broad with respect to climate zone. The Okanagan Valley region of British
Columbia in Canada ranges from moderately warm in the southern portion to cool in the
north. The Napa Valley appellation is such a large area that at least three of the five climate
regions are contained in it, ranging from very cool (Carneros) to moderately warm (northern
Napa Valley).
Macroclimate, Mesoclimate, and Microclimate Another reason for
a possible discrepancy is the impact of macroclimates, mesoclimates, and microclimates.
Macroclimate refers to the climate of an overall region. Mesoclimate represents the local climate
of a whole vineyard, and microclimate is the climate specific to an individual plot within a
vineyard. Some go as far as to include the climate between the soil and grapevine canopy as
part of the microclimate definition.
Many wine-growing areas have local climates that create cool and hot spots. California
exemplifies a macroclimate region with many mesoclimates that range from very cool to
very warm. Many of the cooler coastal valleys of California have much in common with the
wine-growing regions of Germany, Burgundy and Bordeaux. The warmer areas of California
have much in common with the areas of southern France, Spain, and Algeria.
Many times mesoclimates and microclimates are near bodies of water (ocean, lakes, or
rivers) that reflect the sun’s light and heat in cool zones, creating hot spots in cooler areas
(such as in Germany) or cooling effects in otherwise warmer growing areas (such as the
California coast). Higher altitudes explain some of the cool spots, such as the Río Negro
region in Argentina. Lower areas in high-altitude regions (i.e., valleys) may provide protection
from severe cold or substantial winds, such as the Niagara Escarpment protecting the
Niagara Peninsula in Canada.
The region known as Côte d’Or in France is an important part of the Burgundy
appellation and provides an example of the impact of slope and altitude on macro-, meso-,
and microclimates. There are several theories about the meaning of the name Côte d’Or,
which means ‘‘hillsides of gold.’’ Some claim that the name refers to the golden color of the
slopes in autumn, while others suggest the name stems from the revenue generated. 14 Still
others believe the name refers to the mesoclimate of the region’s vineyards, which face east
to maximize the sunshine and heat. A French word meaning ‘‘east’’ is orient, suggesting that
Côte d’Or may be a contraction for Côte d’Orient. 15
Table 3.1 lists five climate zones, ranging from very cool (2,500 or fewer degree days)
to very warm (4,001 or more degree days), based on Winkler and Amerine’s definitions. In
spite of the caveats pointed out above, this table provides a valuable tool for wine and food
pairing. It provides a general sense of the climatic influence that can be expected in these
regions across North America, other parts of the New World, and several locations in the
Old World. These ranges can provide guidance in determining the acidity levels, tannin,
alcohol levels, and flavor characteristics likely to be found in wines from various locations.