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158<br />

UNIT 4: ENVIRONMENT MANAGEMENT SYSTEMS<br />

obliged to spend half his time in pursuit of private funding.<br />

Egypt’s own Supreme Council for Antiquities is beginning to go commercial. Earlier<br />

this year, its officials obligingly staged the ‘discovery’ of a tomb by the Giza<br />

pyramids for Fox Television. The US network paid US$60,000 for the privilege.<br />

National Geographic recently coughed up US$30,000 for exclusive film rights to<br />

the cache of mummies at Bahariya.<br />

These sums are paltry compared with the task at hand, however. Much of the site<br />

at Akhmim, for example, lies beneath a village and a modern cemetery. Relocating<br />

them will cost as much as $10m. The budget for dismantling and rebuilding the<br />

2,500-year-old Temple of Hibis at the oasis of Kharga, which is threatened by<br />

rising groundwater, is a hefty $6m. This is only one of hundreds of monuments —<br />

including some 200 medieval buildings in the centre of Cairo — that need urgent<br />

attention.<br />

Fixing the Temple of Hibis is likely to exhaust funds earmarked for work<br />

in Egypt’s oasis regions. Too bad, because these remote areas have lately<br />

produced remarkable finds: some recent desert discoveries include a Sixth-<br />

Dynasty governor’s palace that proves early Egyptian occupation of the oases, a<br />

gold crown from the Ptolemaic period, and a surprising cache of Greek papyri,<br />

among them unique scriptures from the Manichaean religion that vied with early<br />

Christianity.<br />

More pressing perhaps is that many desert sites need protection from treasure<br />

hunters. At an abandoned Roman fortress town 40km from Kharga, scavengers<br />

last year used backhoes to rip open cemeteries, leaving a macabre scattering of<br />

discarded mummy parts. At a nearby site that can be reached only by four-wheel<br />

drive vehicles, a desert guide recently caught a group of American tourists redhanded.<br />

They were using metal detectors and air compressors to sift through the<br />

ruins for booty.<br />

Yet the damage from pilfering pales in comparison with the organised menace<br />

of mass tourism. At sites such as the Valley of the Kings or Sakkara, thousands<br />

of visitors mill about each day in cramped tombs that were designed for one<br />

occupant’s afterlife. The deterioration of the paintings and reliefs on their walls<br />

is plain to see. Even the apparently indestructible pyramids of Giza are suffering.<br />

With each visitor who descends to their inner chambers exhaling some 20 grams<br />

of clammy water vapour, cracks have begun to appear. The antiquities service<br />

now works the great structures in shifts, closing one each year for rest and<br />

recuperation. Sadly, this solution cannot work for monuments that are more<br />

unique or more delicate.<br />

“Tourism is already a catastrophe,” says Mr. Stadelmann, who like most<br />

Egyptologists is understandably worried about the future. “But we have to admit<br />

that without tourism there would be no public interest, and without that there<br />

would be no money for our work.” He is right, but as tourist numbers grow, Egypt<br />

is going to have to find a better balance between showing off its heritage and<br />

preserving it.<br />

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