Gönnert, G., Graßl, H., Kelletat, D., Kunz, H., Probst, B., von Storch, H ...

GÖNNERT, G./ GRASSL, H./ KELLETAT, D./ KUNZ, H. / PROBST, B./ VON STORCH, H. / SÜNDERMANN, J.
"Klimaänderung und Küstenschutz"
water depth. According to Jonsson (1965) the bed shear stress can be described (like in steady flows)
as proportional to the second power of the orbital velocity. Based on this concept Roberts et al. (2000)
use the parameterisation
2
1 gH
τ w = ρf
w
(1)
2 4h
to study the impact of wave breaking on the equilibrium bottom profile. In Eq. (1) H and h are the
wave height and water depth and fw is the friction factor. We also assume that for h