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Lewis Topographical Dictionary - OSi Online Shop

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COL<br />

a castle which was erected here by Thomas Mac Uchtry<br />

and the Gaels of Ulster. The county of Coleraine is de-<br />

scribed as having extended from the river Bann, on the<br />

east, to Lough Foyle on the west, and as having formed<br />

part of the possessions of O’Cahan, from whose partici-<br />

pation in the rebellion of the Earl of Tyrone, in the<br />

reign of Elizabeth, it became, with the whole province<br />

of Ulster, forfeited to the crown. Jas. I., in 1613,<br />

granted this district to a number of London merchants,<br />

who were in that year incorporated by charter, under<br />

the designation of the “Governor and Assistants of the<br />

New Plantation in Ulster,” and from that period the<br />

name of the county was changed into Londonderry.<br />

The Governor and Assistants, generally called the Irish<br />

Society, were by their charter bound to build the town<br />

of Coleraine, to people it, to enclose it with a wall, and<br />

to establish a market, within seven years from the date<br />

of their charter, by which were granted to them the en-<br />

tire abbey of St. Mary, its site, and the lands belonging<br />

to it, together with the old town, now Killowen, and all<br />

its appurtenances. But this condition appears to have<br />

been very much neglected, for Pynnar, in his first sur-<br />

vey, in 1619, says, “that part of the town which is un-<br />

built is so dirty that no man is able to go into it, espe-<br />

cially what is called, and should be, the market-place.”<br />

The same writer, in his second survey, dated 1625,<br />

says,—“The town of Coleraine is in the same state as<br />

at the last survey; only three houses are added, which<br />

are built by private individuals, the society allowing<br />

them £20 a piece. The walls and ramparts are built of<br />

sods; they do begin to decay, on account of their nar-<br />

rowness; the bulwarks are exceedingly little, and the<br />

town is so poorly inhabited that there are not men<br />

enough to man the sixth part of the wall.” So unpro-<br />

mising was the condition of this settlement that, in ad-<br />

dition to the sum of £20, large portions of land were<br />

allotted for each tenement, and long leases at nominal<br />

rents were offered to all who would undertake to build<br />

houses.<br />

A conspiracy of the natives having been formed to<br />

seize the place, in 1615, military stores were sent hither<br />

from London; and by a vote of the common council, a<br />

citadel was built for its defence in the following year;<br />

it was a strong fortress, commanding the ferry, and was<br />

kept in repair and well garrisoned by the Irish Society,<br />

till the erection of the bridge in 1716. The bridge,<br />

which was wholly of wood, was so much injured by<br />

floods that it fell in 1739; and in 1743 a new bridge<br />

was built, with pillars and buttresses of stone, towards<br />

the erection of which the Irish Society gave the timber<br />

and £2050 in money; in 1806 it was widened, at the<br />

expense of the county, by transverse beams supporting<br />

a foot-path, of four feet on each side. The growth of<br />

the place was exceedingly slow, and so little had its<br />

trade advanced that, in 1633, the customs of the port,<br />

for the half year ending on Lady-day in that year,<br />

amounted only to £18. 9. 81/2. On the breaking out of<br />

the war in 1641, the town was attacked by a body of<br />

1000 insurgents, but was vigorously defended by the<br />

garrison and inhabitants, amounting to 200, who de-<br />

feated the assailants. It was taken by Gen. Monk for<br />

the parliament, in 1648, but was afterwards given up to<br />

Sir C. Coote. On the advance of the forces of Jas. II.<br />

into the north, in order to repress the Protestant party,<br />

Mount-Alexander, Rawdon, and other leaders, stationed<br />

VOL. I.—385<br />

COL<br />

themselves with a force of about 4000 men at Coleraine,<br />

which they fortified and kept possession of with a view<br />

to prevent the Irish from passing the Bann. They were<br />

here joined by Lord Blaney with his party from<br />

Armagh; and though for a time they repulsed the<br />

enemy, yet the Irish, after a successful skirmish, passed<br />

the river in boats, and the party stationed here finding<br />

the place no longer tenable, fled by various routes to<br />

Derry, in order to take possession of it, before the Irish<br />

should cut them off from their last place of refuge.<br />

The subsequent history of the town consists of little<br />

more than a succession of disputes in the corporation,<br />

and between that body and the Irish Society, relative<br />

to their respective rights, privileges, and possessions: the<br />

Society enclosed the quay and made the port duty free,<br />

in 1741.<br />

The town, which is the second in the county in im-<br />

portance, and is rapidly increasing, is situated on the<br />

east bank of the river Bann, about three miles from its<br />

influx into the sea, and is connected by a handsome<br />

bridge with the village of Killowen, or Waterside, a con-<br />

siderable suburb on the opposite bank of the river. It<br />

is large and handsomely built, consisting of five princi-<br />

pal streets, a spacious square called the Diamond, and<br />

several smaller streets; the houses in the Diamond,<br />

New-row, Church-street, and Bridge-street, are large and<br />

well-built, especially those of later erection; in the Dia-<br />

mond and in Church-street are some ancient houses of<br />

timber cage-work, said to have been framed in London<br />

and sent over by the Irish Society to be erected here.<br />

A Board of Commissioners has been appointed under the<br />

act of the 9th of Geo. IV., for lighting and cleansing<br />

the town, which is paved at the expense of the county;<br />

and the inhabitants are supplied with excellent water<br />

from numerous springs at the outlets of the town and<br />

from pumps. It is a very great thoroughfare, and is<br />

the principal passage over the river Bann, connecting<br />

the counties of Antrim and Derry, and opening a com-<br />

munication with all the ports on the north and north-<br />

western coasts. The neighbourhood is remarkable for<br />

the pleasing diversity of its scenery, enlivened by the fine<br />

stream of the Bann, and embellished with the grounds<br />

of some handsome seats. On the west side of the river,<br />

immediately below Killowen, is Jackson Hall, the re-<br />

sidence of Mrs. Maxwell, an elegant mansion situated<br />

in extensive grounds tastefully laid out; and there are<br />

various others, among which are Down Hill, built by<br />

the Earl of Bristol, when Bishop of Derry, and now the<br />

property and residence of Sir James R. Bruce, Bart.;<br />

Somerset, the residence of the Rev. Thomas Richard-<br />

son; Knockintern, of Hugh Lyle, Esq.; Ballysally, of<br />

W. Gait, Esq.; Castleroe, of Lieut.-Col. Cairnes; Mill-<br />

barn House, of Stewart C. Bruce, Esq.; Cromore, of<br />

J. M. Cromore, Esq.; and Ballyness, of Capt. Hannay.<br />

The air is extremely salubrious, and during the preva-<br />

lence of typhus fever in 1817, and of the cholera in<br />

1832, the number of deaths in proportion to the popu-<br />

lation was very small. The town is abundantly supplied<br />

with all the necessaries and luxuries of life at a moder-<br />

ate charge, which renders it desirable as a place of re-<br />

sidence for persons of limited income. There is a public<br />

library, supported by annual subscriptions of a guinea;<br />

also a subscription news-room, and an amateur concert,<br />

which is held weekly.<br />

This place has long been celebrated for its trade in<br />

3D

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