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Lewis Topographical Dictionary - OSi Online Shop

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FER<br />

other in the north of Ireland Turaw mountain, rising<br />

boldly from the waters of Lough Erne, forms a beauti-<br />

ful and striking feature of its scenery. The other<br />

mountains of remarkable elevation are Glcnkeel near<br />

Derrygonnelly, 1223 feet; North Shean, 1135; Tappahan<br />

on the borders of Tyrone, 1110; and Carnmore near<br />

Rosslea, 1034 feet. But the grand distinguishing<br />

characteristic of the county is Lough Erne, which extends<br />

forty miles from north-west to south-east, forming in<br />

reality two lakes, embayed by mountains and connected<br />

by a deep and winding strait, on an island in the centre<br />

of which stands the county town of Enniskillen. Of the<br />

two lakes, the northern or lower, between Belleek and<br />

Enniskillen, is the larger, being upwards of 20 miles in<br />

length, and 7½ in its greatest breadth; the southern or up-<br />

per, between the latter town and Belturbet, is 1 C 2 miles long<br />

by 4½ broad. Both are studded with numerous islands,<br />

which in some parts of the upper lake are clustered so<br />

closely together as to present the appearance rather of a<br />

flooded country than of a spacious lake. It is a popular<br />

opinion, that the number of these islands equals that of<br />

the days in the year; but accurate investigation has as-<br />

certained that there are 109 in the lower lake, and 90 in<br />

the upper. The largest is Bo or Cow island, near the<br />

northern extremity of the upper lake; it takes its name<br />

from being mostly under pasture. Ennismacsaint, also<br />

in the upper lake, is noted for a burying-ground, which<br />

is held in great veneration; Devenish island, in the same<br />

lake, near Enniskillen, is particularly remarkable for its<br />

ancient round tower and other relics of antiquity, all of<br />

which are described in the article on the parish of that<br />

name. The other more remarkable islands in this divi-<br />

sion are Eagle, Innisnakill, and Gully, all richly wooded;<br />

Cor and Ferney, mostly under pasture, and Herring<br />

island, said to derive its name from the quantities of<br />

fresh-water herring found near its shores. Innismore,<br />

the largest island in the upper lake, forms part of the<br />

two nearest parishes on the main land. Belleislo has<br />

long been celebrated for its natural beauties, which were<br />

much heightened by the judicious improvements they<br />

received when it was the residence of the Earl of Rosso:<br />

it is connected with the main land by an elegant bridge.<br />

Near it is Lady Rosse’s island, so called from the im-<br />

provements bestowed on it by that lady. Knockninny<br />

was used as a deer-park by the nobleman just named.<br />

In descending the lake from Belturbet, the first two miles<br />

present the appearance of a large river winding through<br />

the county without any striking features to arrest atten-<br />

tion 5 but as the lake widens,usuccoK.siou of rich and pictu-<br />

resque views opens upon the eye. The bunks on each<br />

side, as well as the islands that present themselves in<br />

rapid succession, arc clothed with stately timber, which<br />

rises boldly from the, water’s edge, occasionally inter-<br />

rupted by sweeps of low marsh overgrown with rushes<br />

and enlivened by herons and other aquatic fowl. After<br />

narrowing in to the strait of Enniskillen, and expanding<br />

again into a still wider sheet of water in the lower lake,<br />

it is finally contracted into a river which quits the<br />

county at the village of Belleek in a magnificent, fall.<br />

The lakes called Lough Melvin, Lough Maenean, and<br />

Lough Kane, which form part of the boundary between.<br />

Fermanagh and Leitrim, may be considered as partly<br />

belonging to the former county.<br />

The soil in some parts is a rich loam upon a substratum<br />

of limestone, or calcareous gravel; in others, a light<br />

680<br />

FER<br />

friable soil on slaty gravel; and again in others, a heavy<br />

soil mixed with stones, beneath which is blue and yellow<br />

clay on a substratum of basalt, here called whinstone;<br />

but throughout almost every part, the soil is wet and<br />

cold, obstinately retaining the surface water unless coun-<br />

teracted by constant draining. The size of farms varies<br />

from 3 acres to 500; those of large size are mostly near<br />

the mountains, and occupied in grazing young cattle.<br />

Considerable tracts of land are let in bulk, and the<br />

holders of them are generally middlemen, who sublet in<br />

small portions: proprietors of this description are called<br />

Terney begs, or “Little Lords.” The manure, which is<br />

seldom used for any crop except, potatoes’, is generally<br />

a compost of stable dung, Lime, and bog mould; the<br />

scourings of ditches are sometimes used as a substitute<br />

for lime. Marl is in high repute; it is of a dusky white<br />

colour, mostly found at the bottom of bogs; near<br />

Florence-Court and in some other places it shews itself<br />

in large ridges resting upon gravel, whence issue nu-<br />

merous springs impregnated with vitriolic acid: in the<br />

vicinity of these springs the marl is found in various<br />

curious shapes, cylindrical, spherical, oblong, and curved,<br />

highly indurated, and of a dirty red colour, but when ex-<br />

posed to the action of a winter’s atmosphere, and used<br />

either in top-dressing or as a compost, it retains its elli-<br />

eacy for two or three successive seasons. The staple<br />

crops are oats and potatoes, with some wheat; flux,<br />

barley, turnips, clover, and vetches are occasionally<br />

planted; the culture of barley it every year extending,<br />

but that of all the others is chiefly confined to the gentry<br />

and wealthy farmers. In the mountain districts, much<br />

of the land is cultivated with the spade or the old heavy<br />

wooden plough; in other parts, the use of the improved<br />

iron plough and light angular harrow is universal, as<br />

well as that of all other new and improved implements.<br />

The old car with solid wooden wheels has given way to<br />

the light cart, with spoke-wheels, and the slide-car is<br />

rarely used, except, in the most mountainous districts<br />

to bring turf down the precipitous roads. These moun-<br />

tain farms are ehicfly appropriated to the rearing of<br />

young cattle, great numbers of which are annually pur-<br />

chased in Leitrim, Sligo, and Donegal, at. a year old, and<br />

kept by the mountain farmer for one or two years, when<br />

they are sold to the graziers of the adjoining counties;<br />

great numbers of mileh cows are kept, and large qunu-<br />

titios of butter made, which is mostly salted in firking,<br />

and bought, up in the neighbouring markets, chirly for<br />

the merchants of Belfast and Newry, Perhaps lesn at-<br />

tention is paid to the breed of cattle in this than in any<br />

other county in Ireland; almost every sort of stuck<br />

known in the kingdom is to bo found here in a day’s<br />

journey, but so crossed as to defy the possibility of dis-<br />

tinguishing the original breeds; that best adapted to the<br />

soil and elimate is the long horned Roscommon. Sheep<br />

are numerous in some districts; they are generally a<br />

small mountain breed, and mostly kept for the purpose<br />

of furnishing wool for domestic clothing, but many of<br />

the gentry have very excellent stocks, being for the most<br />

part a cross between the Leicester and Sligo breed.<br />

Pigs, though found in all parts, are by no mean so nume-<br />

rous as in the adjoining county of Monaghan; indeed in<br />

many instances the food which should bo given to the<br />

pig is carefully saved for the cow. Goats are so nume-<br />

rous as to be highly detrimental to the hedges, which<br />

are everywhere stunted by the browning of this animal.

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