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Lewis Topographical Dictionary - OSi Online Shop

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ARM<br />

the north-western adjoining Tyrone, and the neighbour-<br />

hoods of Armagh, Market-hill, and Tanderagee, are<br />

level; the remainder is hilly, rising in the southern<br />

parts into mountains of considerable elevation. The<br />

highest is Slieve Gullion, rising, according to the<br />

Ordnance survey, 1893 feet above the level of the sea;<br />

it is about seven miles from the southern border, and<br />

is considered to be the loftiest point of land in Ulster,<br />

except Slieve Donard, in the neighbouring county of<br />

Down. Slieve Gullion sinks on the east into the Fathom<br />

Hills, which skirt the Newry water. One of the finest<br />

and most extensive prospects in Ulster is obtained from<br />

its summit, which commands the bay of Dundalk; and<br />

the bold and picturesque features of mountain scenery<br />

are confined to this immediate vicinity, including the<br />

Doobrin mountains and the neighbourhood of Forkhill.<br />

Westward to the Fews the country exhibits a chain of<br />

abrupt hills, the greater part of which can never be<br />

reduced to a state of profitable cultivation. Further<br />

west are the Fews mountains, a subordinate range,<br />

lying in a direction from south-east to north-west.<br />

The fertility of the more level districts towards the<br />

eastern, northern, and north-western confines is very<br />

remarkable, especially in the views from Richhill, the<br />

numerous demesnes being sufficiently wooded to orna-<br />

ment the whole country, and the surface generally varied<br />

by pleasing undulations. From the shores of Lough<br />

Neagh, however, extend considerable tracts of low,<br />

marshy, and boggy land. The other lakes are few and<br />

small: that of Camlough, romantically situated on the<br />

northern verge of Slieve Gullion, is the largest. Lough<br />

Clay, in the western part of the county, which gives<br />

rise to one of the branches of the Callen river, is the<br />

next in size; but neither of them would be noticed for<br />

extent or beauty if situated in some of the neighbouring<br />

counties. A chain of small lakes occupying the south-<br />

western boundary of the county is valuable from the<br />

supply of water afforded by them to the mills in their<br />

neighbourhood. Coney Island, near the southern shore<br />

of Lough Neagh, and between the mouths of the Black-<br />

water and Bann rivers, is the only island in the county;<br />

it is uninhabited. The climate is more genial than most<br />

of the other counties in Ulster, as is evinced by the<br />

greater forwardness of the harvests: this advantage has<br />

been attributed to the nature of the soil and subsoil,<br />

the gentle undulation of the surface, the absence of<br />

moor or marshy land, and the protection by mountains<br />

from the cooling breezes of the sea.<br />

The soil is generally very fertile, especially in the<br />

northern part, the surface of which is a rich brown loam,<br />

tolerably deep, on a substratum of clay or gravel. There<br />

is an abundance of limestone in the vicinity of Armagh,<br />

and in Kilmore and other places; and there are quarries<br />

near Lough Neagh, but the stone lies so deep, and they<br />

are subject to such a flow of water, as to be of little<br />

practical use. Towards Charlemont there is much bog,<br />

which yields red ashes, and is easily reclaim able; the<br />

substratum of this is a rich limestone. The eastern part<br />

of the county consists of a light friable soil. In the<br />

south the country is rocky and barren: huge rocks of<br />

granite are found on the surface promiscuously mixed<br />

with blocks of limestone, as if thrown together by some<br />

convulsion of nature. All the limestone districts make<br />

good tillage and meadow ground: the natural meadow<br />

found on the banks of the rivers, and formed of a very<br />

63<br />

ARM<br />

deep brown loam, yields great crops without manure.<br />

The hilly district is generally of a deep retentive soil on<br />

a gravelly but not calcareous substratum: a decayed<br />

freestone gravel, highly tinged with ferruginous ore, is<br />

partially found here: the subsoil is sometimes clay-slate.<br />

In these districts heath is peculiarly vigorous, except<br />

where the judicious application of lime has compelled it<br />

to give place to a more productive vegetation. Except<br />

near Newtown-Hamilton, there is but little bog among<br />

these hills. The valleys which lie between them have a<br />

rich and loamy soil, which yields much grain, and does<br />

not abound in aquatic plants, although the poa fluitans<br />

grows in them in great luxuriance. The general inequa-<br />

lity of surface which pervades the county affords great<br />

facilities for drainage.<br />

In consequence of the dense population the farms<br />

are generally very small, and much land is tilled with<br />

the spade. Wheat is a very general crop in the baronies<br />

of Armagh, the O’Neillands, and Turaney; the main<br />

crops in the other baronies are oats, flax, and potatoes.<br />

In the smaller farms potatoes constitute the first and<br />

second crops, sometimes even a third; and afterwards<br />

flax occupies a portion of the potatoe plot, and barley<br />

the remainder, if the soil be dry and fine, but if other-<br />

wise, crops of oats are taken in succession. The treat-<br />

ment of the wheat crop consists of one harrowing and<br />

one ploughing, to level the potatoe furrows; if two crops<br />

of potatoes have preceded, a small quantity of ashes is<br />

scattered over the surface. The seed most in use is the<br />

red Lammas wheat, and the quantity sown is about<br />

three bushels to the acre. Potatoe oats are commonly<br />

sown on the best lands; black oats, and sometimes<br />

white oats, on land manured with lime, in the moun-<br />

tainous districts; this latter species, when sown on<br />

mountain land not previously manured and drained,<br />

will degenerate into a black grain in two or three sea-<br />

sons. Flax is invariably sown on potatoe ground,<br />

the plot being tilled with the spade, but not rolled:<br />

Dutch seed is sown on heavy soils, American on light<br />

soils. The seed is not saved, and therefore the plant is<br />

pulled just before it changes colour, from an opinion<br />

that when thus prepared it makes finer yarn. More<br />

seed was sown, in 1835 than was ever before known, in<br />

consequence of the increased demand from the spinners<br />

in England and Ireland. The pasturage is abundant<br />

and nutritious; and though there are no extensive<br />

dairies, cows are kept by all the small farmers of the<br />

rich northern districts, whence much butter is sent to<br />

the Belfast market: a considerable quantity of butter,<br />

generally made up in small firkins, is also sent to<br />

Armagh and Newry for exportation. The state of agri-<br />

culture in modern times has very much improved; gen-<br />

tlemen and large farmers have introduced all the im-<br />

proved agricultural implements, with the practice of<br />

drainage, irrigation, and rotation crops. Mangel-wurzel,<br />

turnips, clover, and all other green crops are now gene-<br />

rally cultivated even upon the smallest farms, particu-<br />

larly around Matket-hill, Tanderagee, Banagher, and<br />

other places, where the greatest encouragement is given<br />

by Lords Gosford, Mandeville, and Charlemont, and by<br />

Col. Close and other resident gentlemen, who have<br />

established farming societies and expend large sums<br />

annually in premiums. The Durham, Hereford, North<br />

Devon, Leicester, Ayrshire, and other breeds of cattle<br />

have been introduced, and by judicious crosses a very

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