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Lewis Topographical Dictionary - OSi Online Shop

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ARR<br />

Gore, Bart., in 1762, and from him the title has des-<br />

cended to the present Earl. The islands are now the<br />

property of the Digby family, of whom the present<br />

head is the Rev. John Digby, of Landerstown, in the<br />

county of Kildare.<br />

Their appearance, on approaching, is awfully im-<br />

pressive; the dark cliffs opposing to the billows that<br />

roll impetuously against them a perpendicular barrier,<br />

several hundred feet high, of rugged masses shelving<br />

abruptly towards the base, and perforated with various<br />

winding cavities worn by the violence of the waves.<br />

Arranmore, or the Great Island, which is the most<br />

northern of the three, is about 11 miles in length, and<br />

about 1¾ mile at its greatest breadth; and comprises<br />

the villages of Killeany, Kilmurvey, and Onought, and the<br />

hamlets of Icararn, Ballyneerega, Mannister, Cowruagh,<br />

Gortnagopple, Furnakurk, Cregacarean, Shran, and<br />

Bungowla. In the centre is a signal tower; and at<br />

Oaghill, on the summit, is a lighthouse, elevated 498 feet<br />

above the level of the sea at high water, and exhibiting<br />

a bright revolving light from 21 reflectors, which attains<br />

its greatest magnitude every three minutes, and may<br />

be seen from all points at a distance of 28 nautical<br />

miles, in clear weather. The island is bounded on the<br />

south and west by rocky cliffs, from 300 to 400 feet high;<br />

but on the north are low shelving rocks and sandy<br />

beaches; and the passage to the northward is called the<br />

North Sound, or entrance to the bay of Galway. There<br />

is only one safe harbour, called Killeaney or Arran bay:<br />

in the upper part of the bay is a small pier, erected by order<br />

of the late Fishery Board in 1822, which has eight feet of<br />

water. Ennismain, or the Middle Island, is separated from<br />

Arranmore by Gregory Sound, which is about four miles<br />

broad and navigable from shore to shore: it is of<br />

irregular form and about eight miles in circumference;<br />

and comprises the village of Maher and the hamlets of<br />

Moneenarouga, Lissheen, Ballindoon, and Kinavalla.<br />

The inhabitants are chiefly engaged in fishing and<br />

making kelp; they have a few row-boats and a number<br />

of canoes, or corachs, made of osiers and covered with<br />

pitched canvas. The northern point of this island is<br />

lofty and rugged, but terminates in a low sandy beach,<br />

and on several sides it is boldly perpendicular.<br />

Innishere, or the Eastern Island, is separated from En-<br />

nismain by a rocky and dangerous passage, called Foul<br />

Sound, which is about a league broad, with a ledge of<br />

rocks having on it six feet of water. It is about a mile<br />

and a half in length, three quarters of a mile in breadth,<br />

and four miles in circumference; and comprises the<br />

village of Temore, and the hamlets of Forumna, Castle,<br />

and Cleganough. The tillage is chiefly for potatoes,<br />

with a little rye; but the inhabitants live principally by<br />

fishing and making kelp, which is said to be the best<br />

brought to the Galway market. There is a signal tower<br />

on the island, and near it an old castle. To the west of<br />

Arranmore are the Branach Isles, two of which, about<br />

eight acres in extent, afford good pasturage, and the<br />

third is a perpendicular and barren rock of about two<br />

acres.<br />

The surface of all the islands is barren rock, inter-<br />

spersed with numerous verdant and fertile spots. There<br />

are many springs and rivulets, but these afford in dry<br />

seasons a very inadequate supply of water, which is<br />

either brought from the main land for the use of tthe<br />

cattle, or the cattle are removed thither during the con-<br />

77<br />

ARR<br />

tinuance of the drought. The best soils are near the shore<br />

and are sandy, with a mixture of rich loam: the prevailing<br />

crops are potatoes, rye, and a small kind of black oats; the<br />

inhabitants raise also small quantities of barley and wheat,<br />

for which they apply an additional portion of sea-weed,<br />

their only manure; and they grow small quantities of<br />

flax; but the produce of their harvests seldom exceeds<br />

what is required for their own consumption. The pas-<br />

ture land is appropriated to sheep and goats, and a few<br />

cows and horses, for which they also reserve some mea-<br />

dow: the mutton is of fine flavour and superior quality;<br />

but the most profitable stock is their breed of calves,<br />

which are reputed to be the best in Ireland, and are<br />

much sought after by the Connaught graziers. The<br />

grasses are intermingled with a variety of medicinal<br />

and sweet herbs, among which the wild garlick is so<br />

abundant as to give a flavour to the butter. The plant<br />

called Rineen, or “fairy flax,” is much relied on for its<br />

medicinal virtues in almost all cases; the tormentil<br />

root serves in place of bark for tanning; and there is<br />

another plant which gives a fine blue dye, and is used in<br />

colouring the woollen cloth which the islanders manu-<br />

facture for their own wear. The fisheries are a great<br />

source of profit, and in the whole employ about 120<br />

boats; of these, 30 or 40 have sails and are from five<br />

to ten tons’ burden; the rest are small row-boats and<br />

canoes, or corachs. The spring and beginning of the<br />

summer are the season for the spillard fishery; im-<br />

mense quantities of cod, ling, haddock, turbot, gurnet,<br />

mackerel, glassin, bream, and herring are taken here;<br />

and lobsters, crabs, cockles, and muscles are also found in<br />

abundance. The inhabitants rely chiefly on the herring<br />

fishery, which is very productive; and in April and<br />

May, many of them are employed in spearing the sun-<br />

fish, or basking shark, from the liver of which they<br />

extract considerable quantities of oil. Hares and rabbits<br />

abound in these islands, which are also frequented by<br />

plovers, gannets, pigeons, ducks, and other wild fowl;<br />

and the cliffs are the resort of numerous puffins, which<br />

are taken for the sake of their feathers by cragmen,<br />

who descend the cliffs at night by means of a rope<br />

fastened round the body, and are lowered by four or<br />

five of their companions. In one of the islands a very<br />

fine stratum of dove-coloured and black marble has been,<br />

discovered; and from the various natural resources of<br />

this apparently barren district, the inhabitants are en-<br />

abled to pay a rental of from £2000 to £3000 per<br />

annum to the proprietor. The most remarkable of the<br />

natural curiosities are the three caverns called the Puff-<br />

ing Holes, at the southern extremity of Arranmore;<br />

they communicate with the sea and have apertures in<br />

the surface of the cliff, about 20 perches from its brink,<br />

from which, during the prevalence of strong westerly<br />

winds, prodigious columns of water are projected to the<br />

height of a ship’s mast.<br />

The three islands form three parishes in the diocese of<br />

Tuam, and, in respect to their vicarages, are part of the<br />

union of Ballynakill, from the church of which they are 28<br />

miles distant; the rectories are impropriate in the Digby<br />

family. The tithes amount to £47. 19. 10¾., of which<br />

£38. 8. is payable to the impropriator, and £9.11. 10¾.<br />

to the incumbent. In the R. C. divisions they form<br />

one parish, which is served by a clergyman resident at<br />

Oaghill, where a chapel, a neat slated building, has been<br />

recently erected. About 400 children are educated in

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