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INSIDE THE GURU'S GATE - Anpere

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Guru Nanak’s visit. Discursively the narrative attempts to create self-formation of a<br />

single community with unbroken links to the human Gurus in a pristine past. By<br />

grounding a coherent and singular subjectivity of the Sikhs in a defined spatial and<br />

temporal origin, as a fixed religious genus of an imagined local congregation, the<br />

narrative can also be used to lay claims on identity and legitimacy to be visible and<br />

acknowledged within a cultural and geographical space in the present.<br />

SIKH IMAGES OF VARANASI<br />

The first step to investigate how a counter narrative is constructed in relation to a<br />

dominant discourse would be to address the question: what is being countered and in<br />

which way is the represented world of characters and event sequences drawn up? In<br />

the case at hand, images of the people and the city of Varanasi, exposed in numerous<br />

historical and modern texts, and uncritically recycled in traveler booklets, websites on<br />

the Internet, and even scholarly works, quite often confirm to an idealized image of<br />

the city as an ageless preserver of the Hindu tradition. 187 In the background of these<br />

representations lies a dominant discourse on Varanasi as a mythical and sacred centre<br />

of pilgrimage, a “treasury” of religious knowledge, where ancient Hindu religion and<br />

law is sustained by traditional Sanskrit studies, customs and rituals upheld by the<br />

upper strata of the Hindu caste hierarchy. The Sikhs, as a minority group associated<br />

with the land of Punjab, are typically marginalized to invisibility in texts of this category.<br />

Varanasi is the ancient holy city of the Hindus and not a religious centre of the<br />

Sikhs. When local Hindus operating within the dominant cultural discourse voice<br />

views on Sikhism they frequently present the religion as an integral part of the larger<br />

Hindu social and religious system: the Sikh Gurus belonged to the kshattriyas ‒ the<br />

caste invested the duty to protect the Hindu nation and Brahmins already in the Veda<br />

books and which developed into a religion for the purpose of shielding Hindu beliefs<br />

from the invading and demonized Muslims. The noble patronage of Hindu dharm<br />

was disrupted by the creation of Khalsa when Guru Gobind Singh created a Sikh<br />

187<br />

For an historical example, consult Sherring 1996(1868). A modern example is Diane Eck’s<br />

popular book The City of Light (1993), which makes a compulsory reading for any visitor in the<br />

city, just as it has become a guidebook for travelling guests with spiritual goals. The book describes<br />

the major Hindu places of worship and festivals in the city and is mainly based on the<br />

Hindu texts Kashi Khanda and Kashi ki Itihas, along with excursions and interviews with Brahmins.<br />

Singh & Rana’s (2002) “spiritual and culture guide” to Varanasi is a more recent example<br />

of the gauzy line between scholarly work, guidebook and pilgrimage souvenir. Singh & Rana<br />

mention the Sikhs on one page in the book, even if the information provided is not fully correct<br />

(Singh & Rana 2002: 64). For instance, the authors claim there is a gurdwara at Jaggat Ganj<br />

which refers to the disputed area between Sikhs and local Brahmins still pending in court (See<br />

above this chapter). Two other gurdwaras mentioned in the handbook, one at Shahzade ka math<br />

and another at Augharnath ka Takia, were unknown to local Sikhs, Nirmala, and Udasin saints<br />

when I inquired about these shrines in 2004 and 2005.<br />

82<br />

Published on www.anpere.net in May 2008

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