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INSIDE THE GURU'S GATE - Anpere

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had witnessed and confirmed that I paid due respect to the Guru Granth Sahib. To<br />

pursue studies in the Sikh religion was, in his and others’ view, primarily to engage<br />

in the Gurus’ teaching and congregational activities, from which I would morally and<br />

spiritually progress. Lay people would similarly judge my presence and identity in<br />

the community on my behavior in the gurdwara. On several occasions visitors would<br />

come up to tell me they had seen the devotion “white” (ghora) Sikhs, or followers of<br />

Yogi Bhajan, were expressing at Harimandir Sahib in Amritsar. This, I interpreted,<br />

was their way to pay compliments and connect with a new “disciple” not born into<br />

the Sikh religion. The studentship also resulted in social incorporation into kinship<br />

structures of a few families. A common strategy in India to verify pure intentions<br />

with close and trusting relationships, especially friendship with the opposite sex, is to<br />

address friends with kinship categories used in social life. Gradually I became the<br />

grand daughter, daughter, sister, and aunt to friends who provided me personal<br />

support and guidance besides teaching religion.<br />

To participate in the same conditions as the people of study implies that the<br />

documentation of religious practices cannot always follow the systematic pattern one<br />

sometimes wishes would enfold. The daily liturgies in the gurdwara, festivals, and<br />

other communal programs are fixed events and fairly easy to schedule, but life-cycle<br />

events like birth, marriage, and death, one must necessarily take as they come. Yet<br />

most Sikh ceremonies related to the life stages are conducted in the gurdwara. I was<br />

therefore able to partake in a large number of weddings and death ceremonies of<br />

both known and unknown individuals just by dwelling within that space. After I had<br />

made friends in the community families also began to invite me to engagement parties,<br />

weddings, turban ceremonies, memorial services to ancestors, and other family<br />

arrangements. Another strategy to learn about life-cycle events was initiated by the<br />

granthis, who invited me to accompany them and document their religious duties at<br />

the cremation ground, hospitals, and homes. The only event I was not allowed to<br />

partake in was the Khalsa initiation (khande di pahul), since the ceremony is open only<br />

to neophytes who intend to live by the Khalsa discipline.<br />

CONVERSATIONS AND INTERVIEWS<br />

During a field work the ethnographer continually interacts, speaks and exchanges<br />

ideas with diverse people in various types of conversations. Most of the conversations<br />

on religion and culture which I had with different Sikh interlocutors emerged<br />

more spontaneously at a motley variety of places ‒ inside the gurdwara after a religious<br />

program, at the railway station while waiting for train, after a death ceremony<br />

at the cremation ghat, in the shop drinking tea, or at a reception party for a newly<br />

wedded couple.<br />

In general, field workers categorize interviews after the degree to which the interview<br />

situation and the structure and standardization of the questions are organized.<br />

Ordinary conversations conducted in the different situations can be termed<br />

“unstructured interviews” as the ethnographer may steer the conversation into a<br />

certain topic of discussion, but both parties develop dialogues freely within the<br />

27<br />

Published on www.anpere.net in May 2008

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