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INSIDE THE GURU'S GATE - Anpere

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equested Mardana to tune his rebeck from which the name of the divine Creator<br />

(Kartar) started to resound throughout the sky. The present Gurubagh Gurdwara,<br />

located in the area of Kamaccha on Luxa road two kilometers from the city centre in a<br />

westerly direction, has preserved a small garden in the courtyard as a memento of the<br />

“seat” that Guru Nanak occupied in Varanasi and the land which learned scholars of<br />

Kashi bestowed him after he had sung sacred hymns and defeated them in religious<br />

debates. Amidst whitewashed brick buildings and concrete walls of the crowded<br />

townscape, a small plot decorated with green grass, roses and French marigolds<br />

brings forth visual imagery of the greenery of jujube, guava, bamboo, tamarind and<br />

nim trees that once provided the beauty of the Guru’s garden.<br />

The local history about the Gurus’ visit and the genesis of a Sikh community in<br />

Varanasi is today conveyed orally and in writing. A pilgrim visiting any of the two<br />

gurdwaras is likely to be provided a ritualized rendering of the history. After the<br />

customary washing of hands and feet when visiting a gurdwara, the pilgrim should<br />

first enter the sacred space and bow down before the throne on which Guru Granth<br />

Sahib is installed. Subsequently the granthi or some other attendant lets the pilgrim be<br />

seated on a sheet outside the doorway to the inner sanctum. In a recitative manner<br />

the granthi will start to narrate the historical events from his memory and point out<br />

the relics and spaces in the gurdwara for the pilgrim to observe and pay respect to.<br />

The formalized oration provides historical legitimacy to the places and instructions<br />

on the ritual behavior in the gurdwara. Like most Sikh events the granthi will conclude<br />

his narration by uttering the Khalsa salutation (Vahiguru ji ka Khalsa, Vahiguru ji<br />

ki fateh) and offer the pilgrim prashad, consecrated food from the Guru’s place.<br />

The history retold is a modern reconstruction of anecdotes primarily anchored<br />

in local legends and the seventeenth century Janam-sakhi literature, hagiographies on<br />

The local history painted in frames at Gurubagh Gurdwara<br />

34<br />

Published on www.anpere.net in May 2008

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