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INSIDE THE GURU'S GATE - Anpere

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commemoration day of Guru Tegh Bahadur’s martyrdom in 1675 devotees offer<br />

money and light candles and incense on this place. Sometimes people sit in front of<br />

tapasthan for hours, and through their sitting postures, recitations of gurbani, and<br />

remembrance of God, embody the ideal of concentrated meditation associated with<br />

the human Guru. When people have special wishes they make individual promises to<br />

go daily to tapasthan for forty days in a row to perform various worship acts ‒ light<br />

candles, pray, and drink the nectar water of river Ganga that Guru Tegh Bahadur<br />

conjured ‒ with expectations that God will reciprocate them in favorable ways. Some<br />

families in Varanasi can “testify” that they have been blessed with the birth of a son<br />

after regular visits and prayers at the place. Ritualized activities around this space<br />

draw their meaning and authority from their alleged connection with the human<br />

Guru. The space was indicated by the Guru and is believed to metonymically preserve<br />

and radiate an objective power of his deeds through which people may benefit<br />

both spiritually and materially.<br />

On all these ritual occasions spatial codifications of social behavior and order<br />

exist in the presence of the Guru’s seat. The tapasthan is held to be pure space which<br />

only Amritdhari Sikhs are allowed to enter. The laity is therefore spatially separated<br />

from the chamber by two doors with large window panels, through which they can<br />

look into the room. To fortify the historical identification of this place, a large and<br />

garlanded picture portraying Guru Tegh Bahadur seated in a meditating posture has<br />

been placed in the chamber behind the four-poster bed for scriptures. The picture is<br />

usually illuminated with spotlights to catch the attention of visitors. The iconographic<br />

representations, along with the ritual behaviors, create an imaginary presence of the<br />

historical Guru ‒ a presence that is further reinforced by the Guru’s relics.<br />

On the left side of the entrance to tapasthan, Guru Tegh Bahadur’s kurta in<br />

Dhaka muslin, touched by the Guru’s body and handed over to the congregation<br />

before his departure from Varanasi, is kept in a showcase. On the other side of the<br />

doorway, fourteen hukam-namas ‒ historical letters from Guru Tegh Bahadur, Guru<br />

Gobind Singh and his wife Mata Sahib to the Sikh congregation in Varanasi and Mirzapur<br />

‒ are displayed. 229 Of the twenty-two letters written by Guru Tegh Bahadur’s<br />

own hand in cursive style, eight are preserved at Varanasi and have provided the<br />

229<br />

During my fieldwork in 2000 ‒ 2001 seventeen photocopies of hukam-namas (including copies<br />

of the main text and marginal notes) were displayed in showcases, while the original letters<br />

were kept in a cupboard at the gurdwara office in Nichibagh gurdwara. When I returned in 2005<br />

the photocopies had been replaced by the fourteen original hukam-namas. The hukam-namas are<br />

generally divided into two categories: those written by Guru’s hands and treated as genuine<br />

“autographs” of the Gurus, and those recorded by scribes with only marginal notes of the Guru.<br />

The autographs normally open with names of the devotees to which the letter is addressed,<br />

followed by behests and blessings of the Guru. When letters are written by scribes Guru’s own<br />

words are found in the left hand top corner of the letter, whereas the scribe added dates and<br />

gave the letter a final touch.<br />

101<br />

Published on www.anpere.net in May 2008

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