Rezümékötet 2008. - vmtdk

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180 H U M Á N T U D O M Á N Y O K GENERATION SPANS PRESERVED IN THE CUPBOARD (The clothes of Maria Rumi from Bogojevo (Gombos), from the 1930s until nowadays) Author: Judit SZÜGYI Supervisor: Dr. István SILLING university professor Institution: graduate of the Hungarian Dance Academy, folk dance pedagogue, Budapest The aim of my paper is to introduce the clothes of Maria Rumi (born in 1928) which she has preserved and used from the 1930s until nowadays. The data which I used to write this essay were collected during my own research. I have learned the sofar results of the Bogojevo traditional costume from the writings of Cselenak Gaborne Durcsak Maria – Bogojevo traditional costume wear – and Kaloczi Aranka – The semiotics of Bogojevo traditional costumes. The book about the national textiles by Raj Rozalia and Nagy Istvan was of great help for me as well. The purpose of this essay is to show through ones’ clothings the caracteristics of the Bogojevo traditional costumes. This has became almost impossible by present day, whilst the population has taken its traditional clothes off and the symbols of the colors of this beautiful wearing could only be seen on some cupboards. Thus an intact wardrobe has made a unique ethnographical value by this time. During the research I recorded the unstructured interviews with a videocamera, during which the informant, Maria Rumi talked about her clothes. The questions were about the name, material, origin and cut of certain clothes, the specalities of their ornaments, as well as the occasions when they were worn. The first part of my paper enumerates which kind of clothes of Maria Rumi were preserved, and it describes their features. It also talks about the materials used in that time, the role of colours and occasions when they were worn. The second part makes an inventory of the preserved pieces of clothing. The names, colours, materials and decoration of the costumes from her childhood, girlhood and bridehood are shown in tables. Keywords: Bogojevo (Gombos), pieces of clothing, materials V I I . V A J D A S Á G I M A G Y A R T U D O M Á
H U M Á N T U D O M Á N Y O K LJUDSKI VEKOVI IZ ORMANA (Nošnje Marije Rumi iz Bogojeva od 1930-ih godina do današnjih dana) Autor: Judit SIÐI Mentor: Dr. Ištvan ŠILING profesor Institucija: Diplomirani student na katedri pedagoga narodnog plesa Maðarske više škole za plesnu umetnost, Budimpešta Cilj mog rada je prikazivanje nošnji Marije Rumi (roð. 1928.), koje èuva i koristi od 1930-ih godina do današnjih dana. Materijal za ovaj rad sakupila sam vlastitim istraživanjem. Dosadašnje rezultate vezane za istraživanja nošnje iz Bogojeva upoznala sam iz radova Marije È. Durèak (Bogojevaèka nošnja) i Aranke Kaloci (Semiotski opis ženskih nošnji iz Bogojeva). Kao referencu, koristila sam i knjigu Rozalije Raj i Ištvana Nað-a Doroslovaèke narodne tekstilije. Cilj ovog rada je prikazivanje karakteristika nošnje iz Bogojeva analizom odeæe jedne osobe. Danas je ovo zaista težak zadatak, jer nošnja danas veæ nije u širokoj upotrebi, i komadi ove predivne nošnje èesto mogu da se naðu samo na dnu ormana. Kompletna, saèuvana garderoba jedne osobe zato predstavlja neprocenjivu etnografsku vrednost. Tokom prikupljanja materijala sam video-kamerom beležila nemontirane intervjue u kojima izvor podataka, Marija Rumi govori o svojim haljinama. Pitanja su se odnosila na naziv, materijal, poreklo, karakteristiène crte kroja i ukrasnih detalja, prilike u kojima su se nosili pojedini odevni predmeti. Naèinjeno je i mnoštvo fotografija koje su olakšale naknadni analitièki rad. Prvi deo rada se bavi vrstama oèuvanih odevnih predmeta tetka Marije, i opisuje njihove karakteristike. Obuhvata i materijale iz tog vremena, ulogu boja, kao i prikladnost pojedinih nošnji za pojedine prilike. Drugi deo rada je detaljan inventar o odevnim predmetima koji su još u vlasništvu Marije Rumi, i u kojem su tabelarno prikazane nošnje iz njenog detinjstva, devojaèkih dana i iz doba tek udate žene. U ovom delu su naznaèeni nazivi, boje, materijali, ukrašavanja pojedinih odevnih predmeta. Kljuène reèi: Bogojevo, delovi nošnje, materijali N Y O S D I Á K K Ö R I K O N F E R E N C I A 181
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