Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

After a very enjoyable and noisy evening enjoying release from the confines
of the ship, we went back to the Club for supper; this was a large meal. Then
after several gin and tonics Derek left early as he was very tired. David and I
suddenly realized that we were the last people in the Club and departed at
about 2 o’clock in the morning. On our way back to the dock we called in at a
low pub for an iced beer and were accosted by Hanrahan, one of the Greasers
from the ‘Biscoe’ - "ever so slightly whistled". Back on the ship, after eluding the
many prostitutes, we found the Captain and Number One going strong and
were ordered to join in. At 4 o’clock we staggered with stretchers to the after
deck and got to sleep on them about 4.30 am.
David and I awoke the following morning somewhat jaded; We took
aspirins and Eno's fruit salts to correct this and felt fine. The Captain called us in
for a scotch and milk, which takes "all the wrinkles out of your stomachs", as he
said. David and I then went down to the tramlines and jumped on a number 37
tram to the Zoo. After conducting a voluble conversation with a Uruguayan
lady who spoke French, we found that it was the wrong one. Then after a long
wait we jumped on a no.41 and eventually arrived at the Zoo. The gardens
were beautifully laid out - tall palms, shady climbers and many brightly
coloured flowers. The ‘capinchos’ (Hydrochoerus capybara) were most interesting
to me, also three hippotamuses in their pond, white peacocks, storks, ibises, and
many local birds including black-necked swans. In the trees were many little
turtle doves, the size of a thrush with conspicuous white patches on wings and
tail. We took the 141 bus back to the ‘Aduana’ (Customs House) and had a late
lunch on the ship, of cold meat and beans, and one peach eaten from the tin.
When the Settles arrived I showed them around the ship. Then, collecting
our bathing kit, we departed for Carrasco beach, passing a very drunken Bosun
on the gangplank. The 104 bus took us through the town and along the coast.
The beaches were large, flat and silvery - and on the landward side were small
shrubs and trees. The grass in places stretched right down to the water's edge -
but it was still brown river water, although a little salty. We bathed, did
acrobatics for little Eleanor's amusement, drank ‘Coral’ beer, walked and bathed
again. It was a relief to be unconfined after being cooped up on our little ship.
Everywhere groups of Uruguayan youths were playing football, using coats as
goalposts - just as in England. Their ball control was very skillful. At a large tea
garden behind the Hotel Carrasco we had an excellent tea of toast, butter, jam,
cakes, scones, biscuits and capped it with a large strawberry ice cream. ‘Spiv’
(Spivey) and ‘Mac’ (McNeile) came in later. There were large crowds waiting for
buses, so we took a taxi back to the Settle's home. They had a beautiful garden
with some unusual plants and we walked and talked until Eleanor had to go to
bed. Then we had a meal and drinks - listened to ‘L'apres midi d'une faune’ -
had more drinks (including very earthy Bourbon whisky) - and then talked until
it was quite late.
We walked back to the Club Inglese, where we found that its members had
all left because of the Captain's drunken behaviour earlier. He and the First
Mate had been dancing on the tables! This engendered an acute depression,
which was enhanced on arrival at the ship by the arrest of our Estonian seaman,
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