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Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

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whether the darker birds were older than the light-coloured individuals, but had no<br />

immediate means of checking. We stood <strong>and</strong> watched them, flying along just above<br />

the ice surface, into the wind, nose (or rather beak) to the ice <strong>and</strong> zigzagging like<br />

yachts tacking to the wind. At frequent intervals they would alight, st<strong>and</strong>ing with<br />

wings outstretched, or run along the surface for a few yards, taking off <strong>and</strong> running<br />

again, <strong>and</strong> so on - but always into the wind. Then they would soar up <strong>and</strong> round to<br />

the back of the queue. Occasionally a pair alighted, one st<strong>and</strong>ing astern of the other,<br />

dipping beak to ground in a nervously regular action. I again noticed that the larger<br />

birds were almost invariably darker than the others, but would have to check this by<br />

measurements.<br />

A week later Derek <strong>and</strong> John went to shoot a Dominican for the pot, which I first<br />

skinned <strong>and</strong> examined - it had large cephalopod beaks in the stomach. Charlie<br />

rushed excitedly into the hut calling out that he “had seen something queer" coming<br />

out of a seal blowhole. This turned out to be a string of gentoo penguins - 18<br />

altogether – the local version of a Loch Ness Monster I supposed! We walked out<br />

about a mile to them <strong>and</strong> I caught <strong>and</strong> dispatched one for the pot - in fine condition<br />

<strong>and</strong> very fat. Derek <strong>and</strong> John now appeared at the South end of Mirounga Flats. The<br />

penguins were going in that direction <strong>and</strong> we followed them, catching another as we<br />

met the others; this would supply us with much needed fresh meat. I skinned<br />

another gull after lunch <strong>and</strong> then was kept busy preparing <strong>and</strong> roasting it for dinner.<br />

The snowies, Cape pigeons <strong>and</strong> giants were abundant, plus a few Dominicans<br />

including one immature; there was still only one sheathbill. I replaced the terragraph<br />

at nest 39, which soon had a bird sitting above it.<br />

Next day we had a penguin for dinner - the meat very palatable though smelling<br />

slightly of kipper! And three days later I skinned <strong>and</strong> prepared (marinated) a<br />

Dominican gull carcass for Derek to cook. That evening when Charlie <strong>and</strong> I came<br />

back from the ice-edge it was dusk <strong>and</strong> the snowies were lined up at the crack<br />

between Outer Islet <strong>and</strong> the shore, drinking. They followed us ‘leap-frogging’ over<br />

one another. On 26 September John <strong>and</strong> Derek went over to Elephant Flats <strong>and</strong><br />

reported two terns. A well-fed, fat <strong>and</strong> healthy Adélie penguin was seen between the<br />

two isl<strong>and</strong>s at Gourlay. Snowies were drinking at the tide cracks, Cape pigeons in<br />

small numbers, giants in force, also Dominicans. Next day I skinned another two<br />

birds for science in the morning <strong>and</strong> afternoon - but cleaning the penguin skin took a<br />

very long time.<br />

Bird numbers continued to fluctuate <strong>and</strong> a tern flew over on 3 October. Adélies<br />

were now arriving over the pack in trickles. Five days later the snowies were in force,<br />

a few Cape pigeons, giants in force, large strings of penguins travelling North <strong>and</strong><br />

Northeast; a dozen gulls <strong>and</strong> a few sheathbills. I heard another tern. Next day the<br />

terragraph was clicking <strong>and</strong> there were many snowies <strong>and</strong> giants inshore, a few Cape<br />

pigeons, about 16 gulls, <strong>and</strong> the usual half a dozen sheathbills. A few terns were now<br />

taking up nesting territories. Adélies continued to stream in, mostly from the South<br />

but we saw an occasional train from the north.<br />

Tern numbers built up, snowies <strong>and</strong> giants were abundant, a few Cape pigeons,<br />

the usual gulls <strong>and</strong> sheathbills, <strong>and</strong> larger numbers of penguins were coming in. By<br />

10 October many of the Adélies at Gourlay were already paired (40%), thieving <strong>and</strong><br />

presenting of stones, fighting, crowing, was all most amusing. This behaviour has<br />

often been described in the literature. Strings of penguins were still arriving, mixed<br />

310

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