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Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

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need of rest from the incessant air raids <strong>and</strong> so we usually had a quiet time; the lack<br />

of our own transport was limiting. We might go to a film <strong>and</strong> they came to tea at<br />

Green Gables. In November 1940 our brother Peter arrived for a brief visit; the three<br />

brothers had lunch at the Burnside Hotel <strong>and</strong> then went on to Dungeon Ghyll,<br />

Langdale where we had a walk. I don’t think I saw him again until the end of<br />

December l943 when I went home for several days to see him - on home on leave<br />

from Africa after three y<strong>ears</strong> service.<br />

In the New Year I went skating on School Knott Tarn, a great pleasure. A few<br />

days later we drove to Rydal Water to skate <strong>and</strong> on to Middlerigg Tarn. Shrove<br />

Tuesday came <strong>and</strong> although I’d never tossed a pancake before managed five or six<br />

without dropping them. At the beginning of March l941 we made a real holiday of<br />

Half Term <strong>and</strong> Mrs Woods took us to Grasmere where we had lunch at the cafe on<br />

the bridge, then walked up to Easedale Tarn. We also paid a visit to Heaton<br />

Cooper's Studio <strong>and</strong> he was very pleasant <strong>and</strong> talked <strong>and</strong> showed us his water<br />

colours. They included one that particularly impressed me: it was a snow scene with<br />

trees <strong>and</strong> a lake <strong>and</strong> he had depicted the snow by leaving areas of the paper free of<br />

pigment.<br />

For part of Christmas <strong>and</strong> Easter I usually enjoyed going on holiday with the<br />

Woods, to stay at a farm in one of the Lakel<strong>and</strong> Valleys. We spent one Christmas at<br />

Seatoller in Borrowdale, at Mrs Bl<strong>and</strong>'s house, which was prominent as one walked<br />

up from the main valley towards the village. We enjoyed another Christmas at Yewtree<br />

Farm, Stonethwaite, <strong>and</strong> one Easter at Mrs Plaskett's in Rose Cottage,<br />

Rosthwaite - the Post Office. There we had a suite on the side overlooking the path to<br />

Watendlath <strong>and</strong> would take walks up there, as well as along the river <strong>and</strong> down the<br />

valley towards Grange, or up towards Langstrath. One Easter we stayed at<br />

Elterwater, at ‘the Barn’, a large house on the northern side of the village overlooking<br />

bracken <strong>and</strong> grass. We had walks to the lake <strong>and</strong> along various paths in the valley<br />

<strong>and</strong> up towards Silverhow.<br />

Often I would go off for the day on my own, which I enjoyed; it was a challenge<br />

<strong>and</strong> I was rapidly learning to find my way about safely, with map <strong>and</strong> compass. I<br />

quickly became very familiar with most of the tops <strong>and</strong> the routes to them. One day<br />

I took Mrs Woods, who was even then, though only in her mid-fifties, a bit frail, up<br />

Great Gable, by way of Aaron's Slack to Windy Gap, before tackling the rocky route<br />

to the top. At the steeper points I pulled her up by her walking stick. She did very<br />

well <strong>and</strong> it was a great day for her, because of the family associations <strong>and</strong> memories<br />

of earlier excursions with her family.<br />

At Elterwater we visited the studio of Bernard Eyre Walker, a water colour<br />

painter whose work I greatly admired. He was said to be colour-blind, but he<br />

produced very impressive paintings of the craggy hills <strong>and</strong> rocky valleys. One in<br />

particular, of Langstrath from above, Mrs Woods bought <strong>and</strong> I coveted it. The<br />

Woods knew him <strong>and</strong> I enjoyed talking with him about painting <strong>and</strong> the hills. They<br />

also knew a garden designer at Chapel Style, Mr Pierce, who lived in a picturesque<br />

farm, <strong>and</strong> they had one of Eyre Walker's paintings of the barn there, with dappled<br />

shade. From studying this I learnt how shadows should be painted with muted<br />

colours in blue <strong>and</strong> neutral tones. Living as a refugee with the Pierces was Ernst<br />

Schwitters, a refugee from Austria who became well known, something of a<br />

44

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