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Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

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The menu was:<br />

Soup<br />

-<br />

Turkey<br />

Sage <strong>and</strong> Onion Stuffing<br />

Roast <strong>and</strong> Mashed Potatoes<br />

Green Peas<br />

-<br />

Christmas Pudding<br />

-<br />

Sherry<br />

Graves, l943<br />

Macon, l942<br />

We adjourned to the cabin of the First Officer (Lord Headley) for coffee; he<br />

was a short balding Irish peer with a droll sense of humour. Dr Stuart Slessor,<br />

the only one of us with Antarctic experience (at Stonington) began a long<br />

discourse on polar travel, on which he was very knowledgeable, but was not<br />

allowed to finish as David entered <strong>and</strong> spilt several cups of coffee. The party<br />

was growing quite wild when I left <strong>and</strong> took up a seat in the stern to watch six<br />

great skuas that were following the ship. They are beautiful birds of very subtle<br />

mixtures of browns, black <strong>and</strong> white. They glided effortlessly to <strong>and</strong> fro behind<br />

us, <strong>and</strong> the predominant impression was of a sleek, almost pigeon-like body to<br />

which the wings seemed only remotely connected. Later Dr Fuchs talked to me<br />

about the <strong>Polar</strong> Medal <strong>and</strong> told me that I would be in charge of the base at Signy<br />

Isl<strong>and</strong>. Derek had indicated that he would like to go there also <strong>and</strong> the chances<br />

of our being together appeared quite good.<br />

After tea there was more liquor <strong>and</strong> Captain McFie, ‘tight as a tick’, kept<br />

us all amused by reciting humorous poetry. He had lost his gold tooth filling<br />

earlier on <strong>and</strong> so to the slight slurring of words was added a sibilant whistle. A<br />

rumour was spread by the Chief Officer to the effect that the water supply was<br />

very low <strong>and</strong> a visit to Madeira for fresh water would be necessary. But the<br />

Captain was in no state to make any pronouncement. The water supply was<br />

turned off, <strong>and</strong> in the general confusion ‘Tubby’ the cook was seized with a fit<br />

of manic depression <strong>and</strong> had to be restrained from jumping overboard. Quite a<br />

start to the voyage.<br />

It was very hot below <strong>and</strong> so I dressed <strong>and</strong> went up to the bridge at 2.30<br />

am. The night was beautiful with the moon very high in the heavens <strong>and</strong> low<br />

cirro-cumulus scudding across its face. The sea was calm <strong>and</strong> holding the<br />

moon’s silver gold reflection, constantly changing. Below me the creamy white<br />

bow-wave stirred up the plankton <strong>and</strong> pinpoints of greenish luminescence<br />

showed the presence of ctenophores or Noctiluca <strong>and</strong> possibly an amphipod. At<br />

3.15 am the Second Officer took a star-sight with the sextant which I timing for<br />

him. Venus <strong>and</strong> Orion were very bright, but the other stars were by this time<br />

obscured by moving cloud forms. I stood out on the port side until 5.30 am<br />

85

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