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Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

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above sea level. The rock walls rose vertically on either side <strong>and</strong> a curious formation,<br />

looking rather like a pig, stood guard over the entrance: shades of Rider Haggard!<br />

Through it one could see the icy hills of Laurie <strong>and</strong> Powell Isl<strong>and</strong>s. We scrambled<br />

through <strong>and</strong> had our first good view of these isl<strong>and</strong>s, but unfortunately the sun was<br />

obscured all day so the view lacked depth. Here we had an unpleasant surprise, for<br />

the ice in Lewthwaite Strait was very thin <strong>and</strong> appeared to have frozen over only<br />

recently. It was really not very safe. The rock there was new to us - a coarse<br />

conglomerate, composed mainly of metamorphic fragments. It appeared to extend<br />

west of the Divide as far as the rocks of a snow dome buttress. Powell <strong>and</strong> Laurie<br />

Isl<strong>and</strong>s were imposing <strong>and</strong> not quite what I had expected. We pitched the tent<br />

expecting to spend a few days at the Divide before moving on <strong>and</strong> this might permit<br />

the sea ice to thicken.<br />

The temperature was -22°C the following morning <strong>and</strong> the sun was lighting the<br />

tops of the peaks. The low cloud moved away <strong>and</strong> we left camp at 1 o’clock,<br />

intending to make for Spence Harbour across the sea ice in Lewthwaite Strait. I wore<br />

my Lawrie boots, which were much warmer than the sealskins. All went well until<br />

we rounded the corner where a dolomite-like ridge ran southeasterly out from the<br />

Divide Range. Here we struck a patch of rotten ice, so headed out for an isl<strong>and</strong> in the<br />

middle of the strait. It was delightful to be out of the mountains' shadow <strong>and</strong> in the<br />

sun again. The misty clouds formed <strong>and</strong> dispersed <strong>and</strong> reformed, <strong>and</strong> the beauty <strong>and</strong><br />

variety in form of Powell Isl<strong>and</strong> impressed us. A gull flew over <strong>and</strong> when we<br />

reached the isl<strong>and</strong> we found another dead Dominican <strong>and</strong> a few feathers, but only its<br />

own tracks. It had been dead for some time as there was a thick hoar frost deposit on<br />

the body; perhaps it had died of cold?<br />

I set up the planetable, resected the position <strong>and</strong> did a round of angles. Derek<br />

collected rocks <strong>and</strong> Charlie walked around the isl<strong>and</strong>. There were traces of a mixed<br />

rookery of Adélie <strong>and</strong> chinstrap penguins. As the ice was not safe to proceed further,<br />

we retraced our steps <strong>and</strong> had lunch on the coast of the headl<strong>and</strong> south of the Divide.<br />

Powell Isl<strong>and</strong> looked very fine, with a str<strong>and</strong> flat glacier to the south <strong>and</strong> extensive<br />

highl<strong>and</strong> glaciation, becoming heavier towards the north. There was a continuous<br />

ridge running from north to south. Petter Bay was only slightly indented <strong>and</strong> Spence<br />

Harbour an extension of it separated by a small morainic peninsula.<br />

The hinterl<strong>and</strong> of Coronation Isl<strong>and</strong> was very impressive from where we were<br />

now - a relatively low ice-sheet blanketed the l<strong>and</strong>, with rock peaks rising from it.<br />

The Divide Range was almost as steep to the East as it was on its western face, but<br />

much more heavily iced <strong>and</strong> the massive rock slabs, where they appeared, covered in<br />

a thick deposit of rime. There was a col to the Northwest of these peaks, which led<br />

over to our camp 5 <strong>and</strong> was a simple walk this side. North of this was a striking rock<br />

ridge <strong>and</strong> then a large peak with Square Peak behind.<br />

When the mists dispersed we saw The Turret, which was as fine a piece of rock<br />

as one could wish, almost vertical on all sides <strong>and</strong> with a small cap of highl<strong>and</strong> ice.<br />

Behind it to the west was a flattish col leading to Gibbon Bay, <strong>and</strong> in the distance the<br />

ridge leading to Cape Bennett was visible. We were shocked to see open water just<br />

north of Spence Harbour; any attempt to travel northwards would have to be<br />

overl<strong>and</strong>, crossing glaciers, <strong>and</strong> would require reconnaissance. Charlie <strong>and</strong> I went up<br />

to the col between the two peaks south of The Divide, but I was unable to get the<br />

angles I had hoped for, so we returned, having seen a splendid view of Signy Isl<strong>and</strong><br />

216

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